tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-89805041759659880362024-02-19T18:21:29.741+01:00*Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger248125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-5261169115932359282019-12-30T02:40:00.000+01:002019-12-30T02:41:18.105+01:00<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This blog have been down for four years but hey its coming back up and I will bring it alive. First out is a winter trip to Kantega 6782m in Nepal departure on January 19th. This is a scouting trip for an expedition down the road. This summer I will go to either the Biafo Glacier or Hushe and see what looks inspiring. It's about time I slowly grind my way back in the game of alpine climbing. It's my hart and soul, it's part of my identity and DNA. It's the tribe where I fell I can be just me. Lest see if I can combine work with semi professional alpinism.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsiJ3aInFDMBBYWcguas3_TBgx7VifjuFIsi_r9Xou1hItnx_Ozxswg8k2ZcMLvhHaeWjd-nrk7ziQaX8dS785fSOoDIr8JXpdXB_qhvbVH29vXzR1aMaYMhbEfN3aPZ3TQejfvI5HeMY/s1600/Kantega.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsiJ3aInFDMBBYWcguas3_TBgx7VifjuFIsi_r9Xou1hItnx_Ozxswg8k2ZcMLvhHaeWjd-nrk7ziQaX8dS785fSOoDIr8JXpdXB_qhvbVH29vXzR1aMaYMhbEfN3aPZ3TQejfvI5HeMY/s320/Kantega.jpg" width="211" /></a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-68224831918970637062016-05-12T10:41:00.002+02:002016-05-12T10:41:31.687+02:00Everest needs to be un-fucked now!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Its this time of the year again. Summit window on Everest. The worlds highest mountain. Its the usual commercial shit show. I'm sure they have lots of fun and I'm happy for the Sherpas that they are backing business. Even if its been proven beyond doubt that the Everest circus is not a sustainable business, they at least have much needed income this year. Nepal is with out a functioning government and now one seams to care that the efforts to rebuilding Nepal is at halt even if billions have been injected or pledged.<br />
<br />
So I guess instead of warmongers we have Everest tourism, its pretty much the same. Its about exploiting for ego and profit. Even if its easier to get dragged up Everest than entering a war zone one can die in both. Thats not necessary bad. Well I guess we are all borde of the Everest rants so I will drop it for now and share some insights from Africa that are as relevant for Nepal as they are for Africa. <br />
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<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: #333333; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 12px;"><i>Alex De Waal's book shows how leaders operate on a business model, securing funds for their political budgets which they use to rent the provisional allegiances of army officers, militia commanders, tribal chiefs and party officials at the going rate. This political marketplace is eroding the institutions of government and reversing state building and it is fueled in large by aid funds and western military assistance for counter-terrorism and peacekeeping.</i></span></span></span><br />
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http://timmosedale.co.uk/rope-fixing-on-everest-and-lhotse-has-stalled-temporarily/</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-77585695128411129892015-06-02T10:27:00.001+02:002015-06-02T11:06:50.242+02:00Alpinist No 50! Q&A <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The brilliant editor in Chief at Alpinist sent me a Q&A form seeking to get some background context to her Sharp End (Editors note) for the jubilee issue no 50 of Alpinist.<br />
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The email read like this:<br />
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">"Dear David, </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Here are the questions that I've been asking people. These might not be the right questions, so feel free to share other ideas.... </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">I’m grateful for any responses you have time to give. I’m hoping to finish this research soon, so if you have time to respond in the upcoming week, I’d be deeply grateful. </span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;">
<span style="font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Please let me know if any of your responses are off the record—and mark which ones are as such—since there’s a chance I may be drawing on some of these answers for quotations in the magazine."</span></div>
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<span style="color: #222222; font-family: arial, helvetica, sans-serif;">Below with the permission fro Alpinist Magazine and Katie Ives I decide to public my answers in full her on my blog. I hope some of you enjoy it.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">1) When you think back to some of the major ascents since 2002,
which ones now come to mind as representing changes, controversies or advances
in the art of alpinism? And why? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Thinking for only a few seconds: Cerro Torre / Patagonia in my mind
has been the center stage of efforts questioning the impossible and see if its
possible. Alex Huber deemed a free of the head wall of Cerro Torre impossible.
And even if it has been done now it might well be impossible in the future, all
will be depending on the Rime conditions. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">When David Lama first tried to free the head wall all hell broke
out. The style was questionable to put it mildly. Bringing Guides who
helped him get on to the head wall, adding bolts and littering the mountain
must be categorized as a toatal meltdown in terms of style. <o:p></o:p></span><span style="color: blue; font-family: Cambria; font-size: 12pt;">David Lama then cam back and set the record straight much to his credit.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The future is clearly laying in a free and clean effort, much like
the one HK and Kurk did a few years later. To me the HK - Kurk climb on Cerro
Tore must be one of the major break troughs in Alpinism lately. They changed
the game in Patagonia by chopping the bolt on Cerro Torre and now the
impressive Ragni Route is the "normal" route. Finally
this aesthetical route is getting the attention it deserves. What is
interesting with Ragni is that when Korra Pesce and Michi Lerjan
(November 2011) climbed the Ragni route early in the season
(much publicized climb) they said that it was the most exposed ice route
they had ever been on. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">A few seasons some 200 (not sure of exact number) climbers did
the route in a single season some of who had virtually never been on a major
alpine Ice route before. In the season 2013/14 I think only one team managed to
climb the Ragni Route and this past season we where back to a huge amount of
top-outs. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I can't think of a single mountain / range with the heritage
and statue that has seen more developments. It’s down to more predictable
weather patterns and favourable conditions. Also the ability to
share info has altered the game in Patagonia. One can basically
sit in the US or Europe and follow the pressure systems and jump on a plane and
hit a perfect window. Two Italian climbers manage to land in El Chalten and
with in a week they had climbed Cerro Torre via Ragni and the Super
Canaletta on Fitz Roy. The Anthamatten brothers showed up and climbed virtually
"every thing" in Patagonia in 6-8 weeks. Then we have the Travers,
Reverse Travers etc. It’s simply the central stage for cutting edge
alpinism. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">One other observation I have noticed is the consistency among
the top alpinists. If we look at the Piolet d'Or we se some names returning
frequently to the list of nominations. That is a change.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I also notice one other major trend. Small team in the lightest of
styles has carried out all the best and most interesting ascents. I can only
remember the NW Face of K2 and the North Face of Jannu as major efforts on huge
complex walls in the Himalayas carried out in traditional expedition
style. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">We in the alpine community tend to look at this type of expeditions
and ascents as less impressive but I think they deserve credit. It’s
a mind opener and nothing prevents future generations to improve the style. Its
been proved its possible to climb this type of walls, not in the best of styles
but its possible. Any one complaining is free to try and improve the style and
set a new benchmark. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">1b) In a 2000 <i>American Alpine Journal </i>article,
Steve House wrote that “the last stylistic climax in alpine climbing came in
the mid- to late 1980s when many of the 8000-meter peaks were climbed in
single-push style, often by new routes. Such climbing was termed ‘night-naked’
by Voytek Kurtyka; he, Jean Troillet, Pierre-Allain Steiner and Erhard Loretan
were at the center of adapting this bivouac-less style to the peaks of the
Himalaya. More recently, the ‘night-naked’ or ‘single-push’ approach has been
applied successfully to more technical routes in the Himalaya by the
Slovenians. But the Alaska Range and Patagonia are also important crucibles for
this expression of light and fast.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Since then, do you think there have been other major
breakthroughs in the overall development of alpine climbing, as significant, in
their own way, as those of Kurtyka, Loretan and Troillet? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Not really. Iconic walls like the West face of G4, Masherbrum,
Makalu, Everest SW Face, the North Ridge of Latok, Meru, Thalay Sagar, Nuptse
South Face (even if the two French Stéphane Benoist and Patrice
Glairon-Rappaz climbed a new line in pure alpine style they opted to skip the
summit snow ridge and bail out) are all mentioned mountains are still up
for grabs to do in this light and fast style. Babanov made what I think is
an underestimated ascent of the West Pillar of Jannu the Piolet d'Or was cancelled
in 2008 otherwise that ascent would clearly have had to be awarded the
golden axe. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">But no, I don't think we can say that we have really seen
quantum leaps like the one you mention above outside Patagonia, but that’s explained
above. In this perspective one might say that the Steck effort
on Annapurna is such quantum leap forward, sadly that ascent is some
what surrounded by some unanswered questions and even if I don't
question Steck others do (for jealousy reasons I think) and Ueli is not a very
vocal defender of his accent and I understand him, why bother. He knows he
did it and he is at peace with that and so should the rest of us be! I think
this is down to Ueli’s personality rather than an argument for Ueli
not being able to be more detailed.</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">2) Back in <i>Alpinist </i>29 (2009), Chris Weidner
wrote about Ueli Steck as an example of the future of high-end alpinism; Chris
envisioned a return to the idea of a “climber” as someone who practices all
forms of climbing (as opposed to the distinctions common since the later part
of the twentieth century of trad climber, sport climber, gym climber,
boulderer, and so on) and predicted that the great climbers of the future will
be those who are able to blend the skills gleaned from those different pursuits
in hard technical routes at high altitudes: “Now, more than ever, climbers must
acquire an extraordinary level of competence in all genres to push the rising
standards of cutting-edge alpinism.” To what extent do you think this is true
now—or will be, in the future? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">It’s pretty much happening right now. Most good alpinist might
not climb 9a but most can climb 8a that’s enough to climb 6c / 7a on
a very big mountain with a backpack and crampons. Also the
M-style climbing of former aid pitches in a semi dry-tooling style
has altered this game and you need to be both explosive and have a huge
amount of stamina to pull off M5/M6 at high altitude. When we are looking
at the best and hardest climbs we see them carried out of climbers that
are all round very strong climbers. Its super impressive! </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">3)<u> </u>In <i>Alpinist </i>42 (2013), Kyle
Dempster wrote of the shift between the climbers of Mark Twight’s cohort and
young alpinists today: “minimalism is no longer seen mainly through the eyes of
the rebel and the mystic…. The superiority of fast-and-light, single-push,
disaster style is now largely the consensus [among high-level alpine climbers].
Today, it’s the spirit behind this form of alpinism, the art and beauty of
climbing, that we must work to uphold. More and more people are taking
cell-phones, computers and video cameras into the mountains. In emergencies,
some of these tools can save lives. Yet the overuse of these devices can taint
the internal clarity gained from time in the mountains….. In the future, the boundaries
between bouldering, traditional, mixed and alpine climbing will also continue
to blur. Lines like those that cobweb El Capitan, the Moonflower Buttress,
Cerro Torre and the Eiger North Face will also cover mountains in the Karakoram
and the Himalaya. With each first ascent, the next unclimbed route will be
harder to find. We must focus on methods that keep mountains clean, so that
future climbers will be able to see the ideals that they inherit: a legacy of
nearly pristine walls.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">To what extent do you agree with this prediction, today, two
years later? What do you see as the current discourse on style and ethics as
compared to ten years ago?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I think Kyle's right and spot on. At the same time its
politically unstable in the world and the time and efforts involved with
an expedition to Pakistan for example is complex, time consuming and expensive.
Weather is an issue but the forecasts and availability to
good forecasts are increasingly going to change that factor. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">What I think we will see in the future is drone
reconnaissance of lines in the Himalayas and that will be a total game changer.
Take the North Ridge on Latok. Imagine if you can scout that line with a
drone and watch 4k footage from many angles and aspects of the climb, its
going to change what can be done and it will spark huge controversies
among climbers and alpinists. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Its not a development I think is desirable but I think its in
the human nature to try and eliminate obstacles preventing dreams come true and
using a drone might well be the key that can help some dreams come
true. Is it worth the price? Is its cheating? Is it
unethical? Probably all of them… </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">What contradicts Kyle’s possition is the rapid growth of
commercial expeditions to peaks a true alpinist can only dream of climbing
with out degrading the style. I'm thinking of the disastrous HIMEX /
Kenton Cool climb on Nuptse when they fixed the rout all the way to the summit
for paying customers. Kenton Cool used the fixed ropes to claim some
kind of record. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">I just think that we will se this happen more and more as the
crowds who paid to be guided up iconic peaks will
unlikely decrease in numbers. I think that the commercialization
of climbing in the greater ranges is a real and present threat to clean
mountains and future generations ability to find and explore new things
and show what they are capable of in terms
of pushing the boundaries. Its so easy to think we are at the
forefront of what is possible, but just look at a video you shoot 7
years ago and compare it to a GoPro of 2015 and your
old video will look pre historic. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">4) In <i>Alpinist </i>49, Kelly Cordes wrote, “This
much is true: members of every generation, at every step, have thought they’d
bumped up against the limits of possibility. In their time and place, they may
have been right: at one point, 5.10 was unattainable, and 5.11 appeared blank
and holdless. Many of the existing classics once seemed unthinkable. The Golden
Age forever reemerges as climbers race ahead with newfound visions and
abilities.” <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">What do you see as some of the possible great climbs of the
future (not necessarily specific routes, but more in terms of kinds of
objectives)? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Like I said above there is plenty to do in terms of improving style
on existing routes. Technical difficulties will be pushed etc. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">5) In <i>Alpinist </i>39, Luca Signorelli argued, “We
make our ascents in an increasingly complicated and multilateral world. And
thus, mountains may no longer represent extraterritorial regions where people
can do what they want.” During the past few years, local communities have been
increasingly vocal about their concerns with practices of both mountaineering
and of mountain tourism—most recently with the writings by Sherpa and other
Nepali journalists about the struggles that expedition workers face on
commercial 8000-meter peak expeditions. To what extent do you see relationships
between local communities and foreign climbers or foreign clients evolving now
and in the future?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The climbing world are face with its own dilemma much like the
issues Samuel P Huntington describe in his book "The Clash Of
Civilizations and The Remaking Of The World Order. Again
the commercialization and human desire to fulfil personal goals and
dreams will trump what might be labelled as the greater good for local communities
and future generations, not to mention sustainability form
an environmental and economical perspective. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">6) Back in 1963, Yvon Chouinard wrote the famous article “Modern
Yosemite Climbing,” predicting that “</span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #333333; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">The future of Yosemite climbing lies not in Yosemite, but
in using the new techniques in the great granite ranges of the world…. Yosemite
Valley will, in the near future, be the training ground for a new generation of
super-alpinists who will venture forth to the high mountains of the world to do
the most esthetic and difficult walls on the face of the earth.” </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #3e003f; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">In the wake of the
first free ascent of the Dawn Wall, and of all the publicity surrounding it, do
you think that ascent will ultimately have an impact on climbing in the Greater
Ranges, as well as in Yosemite big-wall climbing?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Yes - and No. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Yes - to the extent that more people will start to understand what
seasoned Himalaya climbers already know. Climbing complex routes in the
greater ranges is not an easy task and most likely you will need to invest
years of trying and return many times to the same objective trying and
trying again and repeat the effort each time learning more and more of
what is required in terms of technical skills, fitness and conditions
to be able to one day finally stand on the summit. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">No - That was very much a media event that went ballistic
and mainstream. I don't think we will see live broadcasts from an
alpine style attempt of the West face of G4 or at least I hope we will not. To
me adventures in the mountains are a personal experience that’s is primarily
shared with the climbing partner. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB" style="color: blue; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;">Its great too share the experience but don’t go "reality
TV style" climbing is way to personal and it would totally destroy
and dilute the experience and pleasure of going to
the mountains. We have to remember that climbing is a bourgeois
hobby that is very insignificant to most people in the world where many
live under duress on the run from evil in refugee camps or in other forms
of misery. Any one who can afford the luxury of even the
most insignificant venture out in the backcountry is living in
luxury beyond comprehension for most of the world’s inhabitants. We
should remind ourselves of the more often. </span><span lang="EN-GB" style="color: #1a1a1a; mso-bidi-font-family: Arial;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-54397861042041986322015-04-07T17:44:00.000+02:002015-04-07T17:44:02.070+02:00New lighter Metolius Master Cams! <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
This is good news for any one who is serious about safety and weight of the overall rack! Made in the USA with out any compromise!<br />
<br />
Good video walking you through the changes and the thinking behind the updated version of the Master Cam. I use them all year around, no matter if its in the Dolomites in summer or in Chamonix in winter.<br />
<br />
https://vimeo.com/122761643<br />
<br />
<br />
This is a very comprehensive review of the revised Master Cam.<br />
<br />
http://blog.weighmyrack.com/metolius-ultralight-master-cams-updated-and-completely-rehauled/<br />
<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-71560077889177857992015-02-03T02:41:00.002+01:002015-02-03T02:41:41.007+01:00Keep it simple and fun! My Pre Spray for 2015<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Last year was an utterly disappointing year for me in terms of climbing. I accomplished nothing of what I had set out to do. I was severely demotivated and I think I needed some time off to better understand what I really want.<br />
<br />
This year I can feel the motivation coming back, the joy of moving over rock, ice and snow in exposed terrain is back and fueling me with positive energy. Climbing is so personal to me I find it hard to get on projects as I can't really explain them to potential partners and then I get sad I have no one I can pursue my dreams with.<br />
<br />
I still have not figured out how to resolve that. Being talked in to going on routs don't usually work for me. I need to want it on a love affair level to fully engaged and commit.<br />
<br />
This year I have structured my train so that I can focus on trying to climb Das Phantom Der Zinnen ground up. That is some thin I know I can do and some thing I have wanted for years. I alos like to finish AKUT on Cima Ovest. My love and obsession with Tre Cime is impossible to shake. Its simply making me so happy to climb there so thats what I will focus on. Climbing that makes me happy!<br />
<br />
Below is a topo of Hannes Pfeifhofer's new and very ascetic route up on the left hand side of Cima Grande. I would love to attempt that with some one I experience some of the best climbing days I have ever had in my life. Lets see if she can be persuaded to go and try.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwzh6tSuE25me3RMAM3JYZq-ksDUARA9Y8CxIz6-R8PMFTKVtFKz-9ZIjG_Lekk4W159hY4nzXM6AqPuQeIfxmGio-sEMYiNkT-tAmJruNQh-y1zYqZyXZyV8zprjYKk4TaSRlTim7gz0/s1600/Hampus+new+route+on+Cima+Grande.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwzh6tSuE25me3RMAM3JYZq-ksDUARA9Y8CxIz6-R8PMFTKVtFKz-9ZIjG_Lekk4W159hY4nzXM6AqPuQeIfxmGio-sEMYiNkT-tAmJruNQh-y1zYqZyXZyV8zprjYKk4TaSRlTim7gz0/s1600/Hampus+new+route+on+Cima+Grande.jpg" height="320" width="131" /></a></div>
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Looking at Tre Cime in sunset and one can only hope to be bless with more time as a guest on the immense walls of Cima Grande and Cima Ovest.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdt5un4suxpSkFRB_Cy7Wy2PkBNSu3o5j3WwqD5Rl2zcQV5823KEEEV9QE5YBPn2_DnZg_pfD4Wz9fdGiK8rfz5p6VzJaQDLPowjD8PtsUnMtf5C_mFKrLA7CcLTXH1eXcXJZ2pbBE2bo/s1600/P1050499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdt5un4suxpSkFRB_Cy7Wy2PkBNSu3o5j3WwqD5Rl2zcQV5823KEEEV9QE5YBPn2_DnZg_pfD4Wz9fdGiK8rfz5p6VzJaQDLPowjD8PtsUnMtf5C_mFKrLA7CcLTXH1eXcXJZ2pbBE2bo/s1600/P1050499.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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And off course I hope to be in shape in the fall so I can visit the grater ranges, Patagonia would be ideal as I have yet to top out the Super Canaletta. Family, time, work and other commitments will dictate what can be tried and what has to be put on a back burner. <br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-88274365136132947562014-06-09T18:47:00.001+02:002014-06-10T15:02:21.086+02:00Pakistan climbing season kicks off with Terrorism<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Last fall I wrote an article for Alpinist on the future of climbing in Pakistan post the Naga Parbat massacre. Even if the lates act of terrorism was conducted far from where climbers move, it calls for caution for visiting expeditions.<br />
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The situation is at best volatile and tension is high du to a number of reasons, they are all briefly summarized in the text below and I thin its good reading for any one planning to go to or depart Pakistan during this season. I know some expeditions are underway and some are going. I alos know some have been denied permits and that might indicate that certain areas are deemed unsafe. I'm not sure what the Government of Pakistan finally decided to do in order to better protect visiting expeditions and trekking groups. </div>
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An other issue to factor in to the risk assessment is the fact that India has a new leadership in place with executive power as of this week. If tension would rise in the border areas I thin its safe to say that its not the best place to be in proximity of. Other than that I hope every one stay safe and have fun in Pakistan this summer.<br />
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As for safety and security updates just stay alert and pay attention to world news. Subscribe to standard risk mitigation procedures and keep a low profile. And most important avoid traveling by road to the Northern areas from ISB at any cost. Its a risky venture not worth it. </div>
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<span style="color: red;">http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13f/wfeature-future-karakoram-nanga-parbat</span><br />
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Top of the Agenda</h2>
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Pakistani Taliban Claim Responsibility for Karachi Airport Attack</div>
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The Pakistani Taliban claimed responsibility on Monday for an overnight assault on the Karachi airport that <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2014/06/10/world/asia/karachi-pakistan-airport-attack-taliban.html?hp&_r=0" style="color: #2a69a1;">left ten attackers and nineteen others dead (<em>NYT</em>)</a>, an attack that Pakistani paramilitary Rangers initially ascribed to India. The militant group recently split over disagreement over peace talks with the government, which have faltered, while the military has intensified its air offensive in northwestern tribal areas. Karachi itself has been a city contested by militant groups, and tensions escalated there last week after a political leader in exile was arrested by British authorities; he was released on Saturday but remains under investigation. Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif will convene an emergency security cabinet meeting this week to <a href="http://www.dawn.com/news/1111578/nawaz-to-chair-emergency-security-meeting-this-week" style="color: #2a69a1;">debate the future of the talks (<em>Dawn</em>)</a>. Another suicide attack on Sunday night killed thirty Shias in Balochistan who were <a href="http://tribune.com.pk/story/719388/death-toll-from-taftan-bombing-rises-to-30/" style="color: #2a69a1;">returning from a pilgrimage to neighboring Iran (<em>Express Tribune</em>)</a>.</div>
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Analysis</h2>
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"Two years ago all the states in the region would have publicly or privately accused Pakistan's military and Interservices Intelligence (ISI) of supporting, protecting, or at least tolerating almost every terrorist group based in Pakistan. The ISI had links with all of them and often collaborated with them. Recently those relations have changed. Governments in the region now accept that Pakistan is in some ways trying to fight terrorism on its soil. But those governments are also concerned that the Pakistani military and political elite have lost control of large parts of the country and cannot maintain law and order. …<a href="http://www.nybooks.com/articles/archives/2014/jun/05/pakistan-worse-than-we-knew/" style="color: #2a69a1;">There is still no overall political or military strategy</a> to combat Islamic extremism. The Pakistani army tries to suppress some terrorist groups but not, for example, those that target India. Such a selective strategy cannot be maintained indefinitely and poses enormous risks to the entire world," writes Ahmed Rashid in the <em>New York Review of Books</em>.</div>
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"The split likely marks a return to <a href="http://blogs.telegraph.co.uk/news/robcrilly/100275387/karachi-airport-attack-the-world-is-not-safe-until-pakistan-cleans-up-its-mess/" style="color: #2a69a1;">Pakistan's discredited policy of Good Taliban; Bad Taliban</a>. While American troops head home from Afghanistan, while an election is under way, it would be silly of Islamabad to give up its proxies, runs the reasoning. Who knows what might happen across the border? Who knows what allies Pakistan might need? So long as the Good Taliban steer clear of Pakistani targets then all is well. Rather than clear the militants, the havens can be left for now. But while those refuges remain, the Bad Taliban will remain too," writes Rob Crilly in the <em>Telegraph</em>.</div>
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"The ISI's game of prolonging the post-9/11 insurgency in Afghanistan long enough for the tired American leviathan to pack up and go home – and for Pakistan to move in more forcefully – is the direct cause of this terrorist surge, which has taken over 50,000 lives.<a href="http://thediplomat.com/2014/06/the-isis-great-game-in-afghanistan/" style="color: #2a69a1;">There are now three separate but interrelated insurgencies</a> eating at the Pakistani state like overfed parasites: the sectarian Sunni jihad against Pakistan's Shia population, the Balochi insurgency, and the gangsterism and religious extremism destroying Karachi. When exporting militancy is a state's central foreign policy tool, it does not take long for the pawns to turn their guns on their masters," writes Omer<br />
Aziz in the <em>Diplomat</em>.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">SOURCE: <a href="http://www.cfr.org/about/newsletters/archive/newsletter/n1965" target="_blank">http://www.cfr.org/about/newsletters/archive/newsletter/n1965</a> </span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">For additional information: <a href="http://scroll.in/article/666777/After-audacious-attack-on-Karachi-airport,-Pakistan's-war-against-the-Taliban-is-in-limbo" target="_blank">http://scroll.in/article/666777/After-audacious-attack-on-Karachi-airport,-Pakistan's-war-against-the-Taliban-is-in-limbo</a></span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-84692394298411358592014-04-03T17:10:00.002+02:002014-04-03T17:10:59.273+02:00An open Letter to the Organizer of the Piolets d’Or<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b>The 2014 Piolets d’Or – fails yet again to live up to its true potential</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Cambria;">The Piolets d’Or is a fantastic idea and very cool event but its constantly fails to live up its potential. Surrounded with controversy and constantly struggling with its identity</span>,<span style="font-family: Cambria;"> organization and format it’s a doomed event. In recent years, GHM, the main organizer of the event and its patron Christian Trommsdorff have implemented some minor change in a desperate effort to stay relevant, but this years event shows the need for a major overhaul of the charter and structure of the Piolets d’Or if its going to survive as the prime event celebrating alpinism.</span><span style="font-family: Cambria;"> </span></div>
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The international jury of the 2014 Piolets d’Or was chaired by George Lowe who once was at the forefront of cutting edge alpinism when he along with Jeff Lowe, Michel Kennedy and Jim Donini where forced to turn around on the famous and still unfinished North Ridge of Latok in 1978. </div>
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Legendary French female alpinist, Catherine Destivelle who unquestionably is one of the most distinguished female alpinist in modern times also served on the jury together with Denis Urubko who is a outstanding high altitude alpinist. The rest of the jury I have no idea how or why they where selected or what their merits where to be judging in an event such as this. But frankly speaking I think the rest of the jury lacked the insight necessary to judge today’s cutting edge alpinism. </div>
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<b>The jury and the nominations</b></div>
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The first singe that some thing was off with the 2014 Piolets d’Or came when the list of nominated accents was published. One of 2013 unquestionably most notable accents, the French South Face route of Gaurichankar was missing. I’m not saying any of the nominated teams did not deserve being nominated but leaving the Gaurichankar team out was truly bizarre given how significant that first accent was both in terms commitment, technical level and dedication to outstanding ethics. </div>
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The Mount Laurens route was carried out in the finest of styles and with the highest degree of integrity and commitment but it was an effort comparable to other impressive Alaska accents in 2013 such as David Lama and Dani Arnolds accent of Moses Tooth so why was that accent not nominated? On top of that the Laurens accent is difficult to compare with the other nominated climbs.</div>
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It’s not an easy task to find a balance and in order to do so maybe the Piolets d’Or would be better off with a new format comparing comparable efforts or simply avoid trying to distinguish between outstanding efforts and stick to celebrate the nominated accents. </div>
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<b>The Jury and the Q&A with the teams</b></div>
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On Friday the 28<sup>th</sup> I sat in on a roughly three hour session where the teams presented their climbs and explain the decission making process behind the climbs. This was to my understanding the jury’s designated main opportunity to gain detailed insight to the team’s efforts. This was the decisive moment where the jury should get a deeper understanding of what the teams went through and how they dealt with the various issues they where face with on their climbs and trips. This is where detailed questions about grade, difficulties, judgment calls and other issues should be penetrated and claims verified. But none of that happened.</div>
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Each team where to make a 20 min and then the jury was meant to ask question. </div>
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Media where allowed to sit in and listen and as a media observer I have to say I was very surprised that the jury virtually had no questions at all to any the teams. Of the few questions the jury asked the lack of relevance was even more surprising. This exercise was both pointless and utterly embarrassing in the sense that jury seamed to totally disengaged. </div>
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I had expected a structured format where the jury followed some kind of script with questions tailored to give the jury context serving as platform for the jury’s deliberations and final decisions. Instead some random questions about the weight of the backpacks were asked. </div>
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If this session is any indication of how the final jury deliberations where conducted I’m not surprised that the 2013 Piolets d’Or failed to award one of the most impressive teams of the nominees, again I don’t want to taking away any thing from the K6 team or Ueli Steck but its embarrassing on an unprecedented scale not to give an Piolets d’Or to the Kunyag Chhish East team. </div>
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The organization of the Piolets d’Or have plenty of homework to do in terms of how the jury is selected and how it’s to conduct its work in the future. It’s pivotal for the jury to have clear instructions to lean back on when making its decission. Now its seams totally random and that dilutes the value of the event. </div>
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<b>Change the format</b></div>
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Even if the event has been surrounded by controversy for a long time it serves a very important purpose in celebrating cutting edge alpinism, but that is lost in the constant controversies the current format are creating. Maybe its wrong to look at the Piolets d’Or as an awards event and instead of just recognize the larger purposes an event like the Piolets d’Or serves. It’s very much an event where two countries situated on each side of Mt Blanc, comes together in a tremendous effort to pay tribute to modern alpinism. Is that not enough? </div>
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Steve House who embodies the spirit of the ambitions the Piolets d’Or charter outlines was in Chamonix during the event week but House was no where near any of the celebrations, that if any thing is an indication that some thing is fundamentally wrong. </div>
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The lack of ability by GHM to get the community of leading alpinists engaged is a formidable display of the lack of relevance the event is suffering from. It should be a natural meeting point and a week where alpinist comes together and share their experiences in an open forum discuss the future of alpinism. </div>
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<b>Kunyag Chhish East</b></div>
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The first accent of the impressive Southwest face (2700 meters) of Kunyag Chhish East, 7400m was carried out by Simon Anthamatten and the brothers Hansjörg and Matthias Auer over six days on the third attempt during the same expedition. This face has been the target of many expeditions and strong climbers such as Steve House who was forced to turn around very close to the summit on his attempt. In my opinion the success of this team was a magnificent display of exceptional alpinism, true passion, teamwork and determination. Very few alpinists can stay motivated for so long time in a remote basecamp being shut down twice and forced to endure a decent involving 41 abseils. To have the mental stamina to go back up a third time speaks volumes of the skills this team represent. Now they where left with out a Piolet d’Or. Can some one explain that to me? Not awarding this accent with a Piolet d’Or speaks volumes about the fundamental need for change. </div>
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After the Piolet d’Or was finished Hansjörg Auer posted the following on his Facebook Page: </div>
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<i>”If a member of the Piolet d'Or Jury sees it critically why my brother Matthias never reported about his climbs until now, it´s time to change something. This is only one sign of how superficially they were dealing with our adventure on Piolet d'Or. In fact only George Lowe (jury president) and Catherine Destivelle (jury member) understood the challenge of climbing Kunyang Chhish East. But the teardrops of George and Catherine, when they apologized to us for the final decision are meaning a way more, than the headlines of the newspapers tomorrow. Now I know why Marko Prezelj rejected his award back in 2007. Congrats to Ueli, Ian and Raphael for the golden ice axe 2014 and Marek, Graham and Mark for the nominations.”</i></div>
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<b>I think its fair to say that the Piolets d’Or has yet again reached an all time low point. </b></div>
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<b style="font-family: Cambria;">David Falt</b></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-53093265591100962882014-01-28T22:09:00.003+01:002014-01-28T22:12:35.751+01:00I'm getting one! Are you? <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisR1AAmY6-T8RKLY_ew0c04E1a0Z-oxMbwOMtRQW2vK-J43T4dF0TiM8t7HIorea-FSaHvmlPQ8UDBoLDm_tcVjKb_Fo64VAh1A7NfCxAzgCKbN6Lla-ir96N9UNfjyHsPPrYJ_4diSOc/s1600/met+rope+bag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisR1AAmY6-T8RKLY_ew0c04E1a0Z-oxMbwOMtRQW2vK-J43T4dF0TiM8t7HIorea-FSaHvmlPQ8UDBoLDm_tcVjKb_Fo64VAh1A7NfCxAzgCKbN6Lla-ir96N9UNfjyHsPPrYJ_4diSOc/s1600/met+rope+bag.jpg" height="400" width="395" /></a></div>
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Very good review of the new Metolius rope bag in dp climbing who wrote this about the Vortex bag.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #455560; font-family: Lucida, 'Lucida Grande', 'Trebuchet MS', Tahoma, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">"Metolius rope bags have long been the benchmark for durable quality and their newest model,</span><strong style="background-color: white; color: #455560; font-family: Lucida, 'Lucida Grande', 'Trebuchet MS', Tahoma, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;"> the Vortex</strong><span style="background-color: white; color: #455560; font-family: Lucida, 'Lucida Grande', 'Trebuchet MS', Tahoma, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 17px;">, is no exception. Withou"</span><br />
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<a href="http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-gear/view/metolius-vortex-rope-bag">http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-gear/view/metolius-vortex-rope-bag</a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-71248783758738718792014-01-25T23:33:00.000+01:002014-01-25T23:33:00.746+01:00What in the cards for 2014?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Pre Spray is pointless but aspirations are king!<br />
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For 2014 I have some loosely defined plans involving staying fit enough to finally go and climb Das Phantom Der Zinnen on Cima Grande ground up ideally leading all pitches myself.<br />
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I alos HAVE to go back and send AKUT on Cima Ovest. So its business as usual with the Dolomites in the picture and allow plenty of time for the projects I so much want to do. The Dolomites have so much o toutstanding climbing offer, it should be on top of the TO GO TO places for any one interested in Alpine rock climbing.<br />
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As for sport climbing goals I have set some very HIGH goals for 2014, not in terms of grades but in terms of settings... I will go to Chamonix for a week or so and try to send Digital Crack an 8a placed at 3800 meters. The picture is showing the amazing tower where Digital Crack goes up straight in the middle ob that spiky tower.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjacTv7CBYLeE6hjg4tNicAS_EBBkZUxK-i6jcfoyeApcVZ_I4Ev-Fgdrz7gKG9_Axg1AtsAJwihz7kkyvhRJLcI1Ai8ZjXSSBY_X_96sAbOmjHRNB4IOrrmkF01x0Rdi-54M2UhHtGs8Q/s1600/P1010421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjacTv7CBYLeE6hjg4tNicAS_EBBkZUxK-i6jcfoyeApcVZ_I4Ev-Fgdrz7gKG9_Axg1AtsAJwihz7kkyvhRJLcI1Ai8ZjXSSBY_X_96sAbOmjHRNB4IOrrmkF01x0Rdi-54M2UhHtGs8Q/s1600/P1010421.JPG" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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Below is a nice video from an ascent of Digital Crack!<br />
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<span style="color: red;">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKQmi5ptg2A</span><br />
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In the near future its winter and I hope to go back to Patagonia very soon or to dedicate some time for a project back in the Alps. Spring will involve plenty of sport climbing and training for a bigger trip in the fall to the greeter ranges i.e India, Nepal or Patagonia.<br />
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There is pretty shitty ice conditions so not much getting done on that front at the moment but its possible to sport climb on the odd days and pretty sweet conditions for skiing.<br />
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I also like to take this opportunity to thank my sponsors Patagonia, Metolius and Clif Bra.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-41584519303976082102013-11-25T23:40:00.003+01:002013-11-25T23:48:28.165+01:00Patagonia the brand and the HERITAGE <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Patagonia is more than just a bran, its epitomizing the word HERITAGE. Watch this movie about the adventures PAtagonia athletes have endured and enjoyed over the years.<br />
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<a href="http://wornwear.patagonia.com/" target="_blank">http://wornwear.patagonia.com</a><br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">© Copyright 2013 - All Rights Reserved David Falt</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-1072831396073736882013-11-21T17:38:00.002+01:002013-11-22T00:41:26.622+01:00Cold Feet in Super Canaleta<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The early spring weather has been cold in Patagonia with only marginal weather windows open for climbing so far. The first thing we did was to hike up the Torre valley and have a look at Tomahawk, a ice route meant to be of exceptional quality and length. However the lack of ice prevented any progress so we hiked around, (shelter from the wind by Standhart, Egger and Cerro Torre) on the glacier to see if any thing else was in condition, allowing for progress with a minimal rock rack and ice tools. Not much luck there...<br />
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Most things where bone-dry or not even existing. A dry winter had left its marks. Our goal was the much trafficked West Face of Cerro Torre, but up on learning that a strong Slovenian team had backed off and being severely cold when attempting the Super Canaleta on Fitz Roy, options run low and motivation soon faded away.<br />
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The Super Canaleta is a childhood dream and this was my second hike in to the formidable face of Fitz Roy hosting the Canaleta. We had a very marginal weather window, judging from the forecast 24h at best. The Canaleta was in prime conditions, nothing to complain about. We started late however, with the benefit of hindsight way too late. We crossed bergschrund at around 5.40 Am according to my estimate. We clearly underestimated the time the snow slog up the first 1100 vertical meters would take us. Even if we made good progress it was a 4h "plod" up to the first belay (1180m according to my altimeter).<br />
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We roped up after a sketchy solo traverse and started on the upper part of the route in perfect but brittle route conditions. I was cold.. like really cold with less than zero circulation in my feet having opted for light but cold spring/fall boots (note to myself, bring proper boots or stay at home next time…) so I took out the soles in order to try and get some circulation going. No luck doing that. The climbing on the first ten or so pitches to the approximate level of the read tower was amazing. The mixed parts (5.9 plus) where full on action with crampons and tools, good fun and nothing I would have wanted to solo in those conditions.<br />
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When we had our first and only brew in stop (in the sun) at ledge from where you abseil in to the ice under the read tower we hydrated as well as we could and had plenty of gels and bars, but I did not recovery at all. I was shivering badly with all my layers on some thing very alien to me as I rarely freeze on mountain outings. Some thing was wrong, I was meant to go fast and be psyched being so high on some thing I so much have craved to climb for such a long time. I remember sending a postal letter in the early 90th to a climber in Argentina asking for a topo of the Canaleta.<br />
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This was my opportunity to climb this classic line, but again I was not happy with my lack of recovery and low energy. Going on big routes is never to be underestimated even if its not a hard route. Fitz Roy is big mountain and getting off is a big undertaking (I estimate we did some 25/28 abseils back to the bergschrund). I complained to my partners who where much more upbeat and at peace with our relative low point given the time of the day.<br />
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It was 3.45 or so and we had initially said we would have to start abseiling the route no later than 8pm, that was now out the window. There was no way we would get up and down in a day, reaching the summit would not have been an issue but getting off might not be so smooth. We had a bivy bag and a jetboil, but that was it. I felt that the mature and responsible decision was to turn around and start the endless abseil work. I had no desire to just tag along on such an iconic route with no spare energy in the tank. I had even less desire to spend a night out already being cold sitting in the sun and eating, that would have been outright stupid, I know my body. I was getting ill and I later learned I had caught a bad chest infection.<br />
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My call for us to turn around was a disappointment to all of us and I felt very bad for my two friends who now had to go back down with me, but thats the nature of the game. It was the right call. I have zero regrets. We where too low too late and I was not well. We also waisted some time on P 1 with a swap of lead climber, things like that can't be happening on routes like that. I was unhappy with how event unfolded and being in the mountains is about having fund and some times taking uncomfortable decisions. I can always go back and so can my friends. Even if rapping that route is a bitch its better to go back and climb it with margins and in good health, having a blast. Team dynamics are interesting. For me a route loses its appeal if its not a team effort where every one pulls his weight. The sense of having achieved some thing must be present for me in order to truly enjoy a mountain outing.<br />
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I still have sore toes from some minor frost bites… Well that will pass and its all about getting back up there and try again. Alpinism is a process not a given or a zero sume game. Thanks for a nice day out my friends, I had a few great days in the mountains.<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">© Copyright 2013 - All Rights Reserved David Falt</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-53782831497828942862013-11-21T14:51:00.000+01:002013-11-21T17:40:28.732+01:00Patagonia Light<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">© Copyright 2013 - All Rights Reserved David Falt</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-44620381278583846082013-10-11T20:54:00.003+02:002013-11-21T17:40:12.806+01:00The Future of Climbing in Pakistan <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
With significant editorial support from Katie Ives, Editor In Chief of Alpinist Magazine, I have written an article on the future of climbing in Pakistan, more specifically in Gilgit-Baltistan.<br />
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<a href="http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13f/wfeature-future-karakoram-nanga-parbat">http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web13f/wfeature-future-karakoram-nanga-parbat</a><br />
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I want to extend a special thanks to Kate Brooks (<a href="http://www.katebrooks.com/">http://www.katebrooks.com</a>) for her kind contribution, helping with the visual illustration to this article.<br />
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Thanks to Alpinist Magazine<br />
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<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">© Copyright 2013 - All Rights Reserved David Falt</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-51940228616387291932013-09-08T22:23:00.002+02:002013-10-08T18:11:17.611+02:00AKUT on Cima Ovest with Ben Moon to come so stay tuned<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">© Copyright 2013 - All Rights Reserved David Falt</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-8730185836026941752013-08-04T15:30:00.001+02:002013-08-04T16:10:58.118+02:00Progressing backwards?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">When in dubt write a blog...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Not sure I have much to contribute with when it comes to hard sport climbing, in fact I think I have lees than zero to add as I’m such a mediocre climber. I’m outright lost in the world of pulling hard. Last year I spent an enormous amount of time redpointing an 8a+ and yes I’m happy I sent it but not overwhelmed with joy. After that ordeal I promised my self I would go for volume and not spend more than two or maximum three tries on any thing this year. How ever I have two routes in Tre Cime I like to pull off this summer and they both go free at 7c+ and 8a with multiple 7b to 7c pitches. So I figure I need to get some max power in me and not just stamina.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Now this redpoint swampland is hard to get out of. When I start to invest time and effort in to a route its kind of becomes important to send it. How come? What is really the point of climbing half a grade up or down? EGO! Its all about ego I guess. For me the process of trying harder routes are actually both demotivating and depressing, still I do it. I find climbing lots of different routes the most fun and satisfying part of climbing. Being out just climbing heaps of long and not too hard routes makes me happy. I guess some find it rewarding making slow progress and working out the best beta. I just want to get on with it. I think that why I’m a much better alpine climber than a sport climber. Its never too hard but you need that drive to keep going. I love that.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Still, I keep going back to the harder projects I have started working on. Not all in vain but I’m not sure its actually that rewarding, well at least not in the short term. It will be interesting how much of a toll my stamina has taken when I go to Tre Cime and try to climb 550 meters of sustained overhanging chosse. I can’t wait to be back in the magic world of the steep north faces of the Towers in Tre Cime. I also miss the CAI hut and its lovely staff.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">What I also find interesting is that I have a very low gap between my onsight max and my redpoint max. When I’m in good shape I can climb 7c onsigt but to do a 8a takes me about 6 days of multiple tries. I wonder what factors in to this huge spread in ability to swiftly dispatch 8a? Is 7c just my threshold max so to speak, its the grade where the moves are just hard enough for me to pull through on what ever skills, power and technique I posses? Its most likely a waist of time trying to understand this, but if I did understand it it might help me progress.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">One thing that became evident this summer is that having a climbing partner you can work routes with and share beta with is super motivating. Climbing with fellow MOON Athlete Kajsa Rosen for two weeks this summer was extremely rewarding and fun. Kajsa is very talented but above all very strong, basically every thing I’m not. We had lots of fun and Kajsa dispatched every thing with ease, I’m still struggling to finish off a 8a Kajsa did in an afternoon … I’m on day five now it seams like I need six days, or at least I hope I don’t need more.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">Well this post might not make a lot of sense to any one so I will not insist on any one reading it.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><span style="line-height: 1.2em;">Photo: </span><span style="line-height: 16px;">Kajsa Rosen dispatching “Doux leurre” 8a in Grand Bois, I finally manage to send it and its a very cool route, not at all my style. </span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">© Copyright 2013 - All Rights Reserved David Falt</span><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-7868044318584695412013-07-27T23:47:00.001+02:002013-07-27T23:47:23.537+02:00Farewell mass for Artur Hajzer<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
No words needed. R.I.P Artur<br />
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<a href="http://snowreligion.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/farewell-mass-for-artur-hajzer.html?spref=fb">http://snowreligion.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/farewell-mass-for-artur-hajzer.html?spref=fb</a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-39981190590093400162013-07-18T09:35:00.000+02:002013-08-04T15:32:34.352+02:00Alpha FL 45 Pack – Alpine backpack<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Foxy - Light (680g) - and @ around 200€ Affordable. The <span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;">Arc'teryx Alpha FJ 45 Alpine Pack</span><span style="text-align: -webkit-auto;"> looks like the real deal. But is it? Only time will tell.</span><br />
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Its long time since I came across some thing I was looking forward to try and carry. The CiloGear Works Sack are by no comparison the best packs I have ever tried climbing with. CiloGear have been alone on the market with a well thought out design and minimalistic pack for climbing also allowing for carrying heavy loads on the approach.<br />
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Its hard how ever to stay in front for ever and with its wast resources I would be suppressed if Arc'teryx fail to impress but life is a big disappointment so I will not start digging my grave if this is the case.<br />
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The jury is still out on the new Arc'teryx Alpha FJ 45 Alpine Pack as no one I know of have tested it live, but it sure looks like the first ever contender to challenge CiloGear. The BD Speed is ok but its bulky back structure sucks and is accumulating way too much moist resulting in a frozen back each morning.</div>
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Price is important and at an estimated 200€ this is no doubt very attractive. I have 3 packs in the 45L segment and I don't like any of them. I use the BD Speed but its not good. I actually opt for the 30L Cilo Worksack sacrificing some essential stuff and thats plain stupid I have learned the hard way. </div>
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It will be interesting to see if Arc'teryx will come out and compliment the Alpha FJ 45 with a lead pack in the 30L range. Durability on other packs in that volume range from Arc'teryx have failed to impress. </div>
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<b>Five things will be interesting to test on the Alpha FJ 45 Alpine Pack:</b></div>
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- Durability in tear VS weight. </div>
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- How it packs. Can I get a my part of a 3 day kit in for a sub 7000 m single push or some thing similar in the alps in winter? </div>
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- How is it to carry to the base of the climb? This is of interest as thats where I suspect Cilo still might have an advantage, but lets see. </div>
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- How is it to climb with this one, once the gear is on the harness and I'm heading up. It sure looks perfect in its shape from what I can see on pictures so it will be interesting to see how its behaves on the back under movement. That is going to be decisive for a final judgement. </div>
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- Finally can I clip it in to a runner in the middle of a pitch and haul it?</div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">© Copyright 2013 - All Rights Reserved David Falt</span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-36404427221431002702013-06-29T17:48:00.002+02:002013-08-04T15:33:28.838+02:00Love this picture from Alpenliebe<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4VU6BHh7dQqwdnbFClCauSvLb9xlFUIQOYLSdD7xYHrEb3GAztQBa1_Aik-EXA4iOyHyt0KvaCyNd5oSYSS3a-O3aZX9cs_JRPv7QRVKBkXxzsRw3x3DU_7AiQ87LnHot9I4w5p8hRHk/s720/1013376_10200279361372721_1158700557_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4VU6BHh7dQqwdnbFClCauSvLb9xlFUIQOYLSdD7xYHrEb3GAztQBa1_Aik-EXA4iOyHyt0KvaCyNd5oSYSS3a-O3aZX9cs_JRPv7QRVKBkXxzsRw3x3DU_7AiQ87LnHot9I4w5p8hRHk/s1600/1013376_10200279361372721_1158700557_n.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">© Copyright 2013 - All Rights Reserved David Falt</span></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-8732338925627451352013-06-27T23:00:00.003+02:002013-06-27T23:00:51.810+02:00Trouble Will Find Me - The National <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="userContent">Play this on my funural! I love this song and album, its my life on a record! </span></div>
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<span class="userContent">♫ I Need My Girl – The National<a href="http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Ft.co%2FhOcGtAUOvX&h=5AQGyxQJ7AQHOw7R-GZdJtf_6q-gVdoajPTyZ4WlbmHaT2w&s=1" rel="nofollow nofollow" style="color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;" target="_blank">http://t.co/hOcGtAUOvX</a></span></div>
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<strong>I Need My Girl</strong></div>
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I Need My Girl, a song by The National on Spotify.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-84046513231495217612013-06-26T11:44:00.003+02:002013-06-26T11:44:53.314+02:00Prima Ballerina a new gem in Tre Cime?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFqBbtm0Uh5MmAUaiDTUFG13KZTGpI3jwZwsdBiZSCMAR1XuooAjDrsiTEUrY3N3SaNwrGsbABmGqyaUE2AkEpcIhFzFbse8MSpA14fjmL-ug8tzc3nl-L6JWmtcz6-WQ3STTGNirEJRE/s1600/946503_509441109128562_1303143725_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="452" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFqBbtm0Uh5MmAUaiDTUFG13KZTGpI3jwZwsdBiZSCMAR1XuooAjDrsiTEUrY3N3SaNwrGsbABmGqyaUE2AkEpcIhFzFbse8MSpA14fjmL-ug8tzc3nl-L6JWmtcz6-WQ3STTGNirEJRE/s640/946503_509441109128562_1303143725_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-33324264379594209772013-06-24T22:45:00.002+02:002013-06-24T22:45:40.538+02:00The non fiction MOON Board!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
"Train Harder - Climb Harder" Ben Moon<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSKGeR1xgDNIcbKk8IytRE13idFEBM4_2sWO_1J7qk2tAcdpK-0mzFzv2PvM0omKEFS2AvZB_7HBPBziN4k8Hh7Bohm286hoz9Vpug2gg-pGV8kKPzXRbmGSr9Nh1v0D3ddXE5gax15Dk/s1600/BNiNa0WCUAAbxkc.jpg-large.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSKGeR1xgDNIcbKk8IytRE13idFEBM4_2sWO_1J7qk2tAcdpK-0mzFzv2PvM0omKEFS2AvZB_7HBPBziN4k8Hh7Bohm286hoz9Vpug2gg-pGV8kKPzXRbmGSr9Nh1v0D3ddXE5gax15Dk/s640/BNiNa0WCUAAbxkc.jpg-large.jpeg" width="478" /></a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-35243140276360288562013-05-30T23:08:00.002+02:002013-05-31T00:14:26.913+02:00TCU vs 1 ton boulder!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Pretty cool stuff!<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=c3bES1bc0_4">https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=c3bES1bc0_4</a></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-72785330353658905692013-05-29T17:25:00.003+02:002013-05-29T17:25:50.847+02:00Metolius Harness review<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: small; font-weight: normal;">I found this review from Splitter Choss of the Metolius Trad Harness I used for a year vey much to the point. I love the </span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">double loop on big routes in the Dolomites where I have put quite some milage in to my Trad harness. Only thing I like to add is that its even comfy to sleep in and thats rare for a harness!</span></span></h2>
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<a href="http://www.splitterchoss.com/" style="border: 0px; color: #333333; font-family: arial, lucinda, verdana, geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Climbing, Adventure, Gear & Choss"><img alt="Splitter Choss" src="http://www.splitterchoss.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/splitter_logo_black1.gif" style="border: none; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Splitter Choss" /></a></h1>
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Metolius Safe Tech Comp & Trad Harness Review</h1>
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<span class="left" style="border: 0px; display: block; float: left !important; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 330px;">Posted by <a href="http://www.splitterchoss.com/author/choss%20master/" rel="author" style="border: 0px; color: #ff3300; font-family: Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-style: normal; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" title="Posts by BJ Sbarra">BJ Sbarra</a> on May 22, 2013</span><span class="right" style="border: 0px; display: block; float: right !important; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline; width: 300px;"></span></div>
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As the new crop of modern harnesses began to emerge, there was one player who’s absence was obvious. Where was Metolius, and when were they going to offer up something comparable for those who love the Safe Tech features, but desired something more modern, including speed buckles?</div>
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The answer came in spring of 2012, when they stepped into the game with two offerings, a sport and a trad model. We’ve tested both over the past year, and they’re everything you’ve come to expect from Metolius, with a modern twist.</div>
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So what was the hold up? In typical Metolius fashion, they weren’t happy putting out a speed buckle until they knew it would be the safest of its kind, and could actually “lock” in place. In fact, in testing other harnesses during their R&D process, they actually found that in weird fall situations, such as sideways or completely upside down loading, some harnesses currently on the market were failing, some with the webbing cleaving in two, some that slipped under relatively low loads. (The current CE/UIAA dummy test is in the upright position only, though they are looking into changing these requirements). The end result is a speed buckle that locks in place, and will stay put no matter how you come flying off the wall. It’s not as smooth to cinch down as other models, but the learning curve is minimal, and there’s no question it’s safer.</div>
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<img alt="" class="alignright wp-image-9493" height="271" src="http://www.splitterchoss.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/metolius-comp-harness.jpg" style="border: 0px; display: block; float: right; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; line-height: 0; margin: 6px 0px 0px 15px; max-width: 960px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="metolius-comp-harness" width="352" />The <a href="http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/safe-tech_comp.html" style="border: 0px; color: #ff3300; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Comp (sport) harness </a> is sleek, with four gear loops that can hold plenty of draws for your next sick projjy proj. The waist belt is slim but comfortable enough that when you are dogging up the wall, you can hang for hours figuring out how to get from one hold to the next, assuming your belayer doesn’t tie you off and head off with other friends. It weighs 13 oz and retails for $89.</div>
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The <a href="http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/safe-tech_trad.html" style="border: 0px; color: #ff3300; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; margin: 0px; padding: 0px; text-decoration: none; vertical-align: baseline;" target="_blank">Trad harness</a> is fully featured, with dual belay loops, four big gear loops, and adjustable rise/leg loops, which means you can dial in the perfect fit for your body type. Tracy has been testing this one and she grabs it without fail whenever we aren’t going to clip bolts (and sometimes even then too.) The comfort level is high, and she’s found the dual belay loops quite useful when descending multipitch routes, as you can use one to tether into the anchor, and the other for managing your rap device. The Trad weights 16.5 oz and retails for $99.</div>
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In climbing, it’s easy to be complacent about safety, especially when you’ve been doing it for a long time, but make one mistake and you can die from it. Metolius has always had our respect for fully acknowledging that and creating products designed to keep us safer out on the rocks, in spite of ourselves. Some have shied away from their products, claiming them to be overbuilt, but if you are looking for an excellent harness that combines comfort, functionality and best-in-class safety, it’s hard to beat the Safe Tech Comp and Trad.</div>
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<a href="http://www.splitterchoss.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/metolius-trad-harness.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" class="alignright wp-image-9495" height="271" src="http://www.splitterchoss.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/metolius-trad-harness.jpg" style="border: 0px; display: block; font-family: inherit; font-style: inherit; line-height: 0; margin-top: 6px; max-width: 960px; padding: 0px; vertical-align: baseline;" title="metolius-trad-harness" width="352" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.splitterchoss.com/2013/05/22/metolius-safe-tech-comp-trad-harness-review/">http://www.splitterchoss.com/2013/05/22/metolius-safe-tech-comp-trad-harness-review/</a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-45146523021384607102013-05-22T18:41:00.000+02:002013-05-22T18:41:22.895+02:00Raising funds for Layton Kor<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span class="fcg" style="color: grey;"><span class="fwb" data-ft="{"tn":";"}" style="font-weight: bold;"><a data-hovercard="/ajax/hovercard/page.php?id=19611322705&extragetparams=%7B%22hc_location%22%3A%22timeline%22%7D" href="https://www.facebook.com/Alpinist?hc_location=timeline" style="color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;">Alpinist Magazine</a></span></span></h5>
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<a class="uiLinkSubtle" href="https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151214996967706&set=a.194714162705.106672.19611322705&type=1" style="color: grey; cursor: pointer; text-decoration: none;">5 minutes ago</a><a aria-label="Public" class="uiStreamPrivacy inlineBlock fbStreamPrivacy fbPrivacyAudienceIndicator _1_o" data-hover="tooltip" href="https://www.facebook.com/Alpinist?ref=stream&hc_location=stream#" role="button" style="color: #3b5998; cursor: pointer; display: inline-block; margin-left: 6px; position: relative; text-decoration: none; top: 1px; zoom: 1;"><i class="lock img sp_cx2i0t sx_449ae8" style="background-image: url(https://fbstatic-a.akamaihd.net/rsrc.php/v2/yd/r/IGCFwUDxExb.png); background-position: -205px -475px; background-repeat: no-repeat no-repeat; background-size: auto; bottom: -1px; display: inline-block; height: 12px; margin-bottom: -5px; position: relative; vertical-align: top; width: 12px;"></i></a></div>
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Here's a neat way to get a piece of North American rock climbing history and help out a fellow climber. Jody Langford is selling around 50 poster-size prints of Layton Kor on the first ascent of The Gothic Pillar (V 5.10 A3) in the Black Ca<span class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline;">nyon in 1987. Each one is signed by Layton and Ed Webster, who took the photo. The $100 price per poster goes directly to Karen Kor for funeral expenses. Shipping is $5. Mail a check or money order to:<br /><br />Jody Langford<br />P.O. Box 953<br />Templeton, CA 93465</span></div>
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<img alt="Photo: Here's a neat way to get a piece of North American rock climbing history and help out a fellow climber. Jody Langford is selling around 50 poster-size prints of Layton Kor on the first ascent of The Gothic Pillar (V 5.10 A3) in the Black Canyon in 1987. Each one is signed by Layton and Ed Webster, who took the photo. The $100 price per poster goes directly to Karen Kor for funeral expenses. Shipping is $5. Mail a check or money order to:
Jody Langford
P.O. Box 953
Templeton, CA 93465" class="scaledImageFitWidth img" height="538" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc3/p480x480/984063_10151214996967706_132966585_n.jpg" style="border: 0px; height: auto; min-height: 100%; position: relative; width: 403px;" width="403" /></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8980504175965988036.post-58481306728685404422013-05-19T23:08:00.000+02:002013-08-04T15:38:01.265+02:00Tragedy on Nuptse<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIKAYiRA6ASPQ5ydsKDTtM2gIK_0hnCnF2XTFh6Ip9H7KxT4ZuV9MnS_C8iSFO1bgU4bcR0BR_v3WWsgUMlNFxeOGqqQL7LcvayWxGeO4D_992m_84GILGz8iGg5zxxjNlOctMFudS6yw/s1600/95172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIKAYiRA6ASPQ5ydsKDTtM2gIK_0hnCnF2XTFh6Ip9H7KxT4ZuV9MnS_C8iSFO1bgU4bcR0BR_v3WWsgUMlNFxeOGqqQL7LcvayWxGeO4D_992m_84GILGz8iGg5zxxjNlOctMFudS6yw/s400/95172.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></span>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: 16pt;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Picture from: http://www.summitpost.org</span></span><br />
<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-GB">Creating history is not always a good thing...
Over the weekend a true mountaineers mountain was victimized and forever
lost part of its glory. Yet an other mountain has been lost to the profit
hunger of commercial expedition organizers. Nuptse has always been a true
challenge for the best alpinists in the world. The list of outstanding
alpinists whom have tried and some times successfully managed to forge lines up
Nuptse is long. Its a list of who is who when it comes to climbing hard lines
in alpine style. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Some controversy was sparked when Babanov finished
the much-desired South Pillar on Nuptse East and Steve House protested against
the Piolet D'Or the ascent received by distancing himself from the event.
Babanov and his partner fixed the start of the long and exposed route all
though several strong teams had attempted the route in pure alpine style. Many
argued that Babanov and his partner lowered the standards in order to be first
and thought of it as bad judgement and lack of style. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">At that time I don't think any one in the climbing
world thought it would be possible to buy a summit of Nuptse. Now that has
sadly happened. And on the back of the commercial expedition some “uncool”
tagged along and pulled off some kind of ascent. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-GB">The Everest shit show is spilling over to
Nuptse</span></b><span lang="EN-GB"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">This season marks an all time low in the Everest
region. Everest is a can of worms and literally the floodgates are wide open
for any one with a big enough wallet to get to the summit of what ever they
desire. Its pathetic, sad and tragic that one of the most distinguished of all
Himalayan peaks have fallen victim to a guided commercial expedition.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">The responsible organizer placed a team of about 10
to 12 clients and guides on the summit after fixing ropes all the way to the
summit. I frankly think it’s an irresponsible decision to offer Nuptse to
paying clients. What is next? A Via Ferata up Great Trango Tower? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Will the elusive North Ridge of Latok become a
victim of a team blinded by ambition or a commercial organizer keen to do some
thing spectacular for its paying clients? Or worse will it succumb to a team of
climbers looking at the Everest shit show and deciding that it’s ok to reach
the summit by any means?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Is it really necessary for HIMEX to pollute every
single mountain they can? It all boils down to scale of economics; by offering
some thing extra with in reach of Everest BC they can use its army of Sherpa’s
and its supreme logistic power to squeeze even more business out of the Everest
season. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Have they no sense of understanding and respect for
the climbing history on Nuptse? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Profit and peak bagging before dignity that is how
we have to view this ascent. A truly hart breaking event. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-GB" style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white; color: red; font-family: Georgia, Utopia, 'Palatino Linotype', Palatino, serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 19px;">© Copyright 2013 - All Rights Reserved David Falt</span></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--></div>
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