Wednesday, 23 May 2012

Its been quite some times since I last posted any thing on the blog. Not that there is a lack of topics worthy a comment. And I'm not just thinking of the pathetic Everest season in full swing... Plenty of other stuff in the savvy world of climbing conflicts deserve further thoughts. But I have been busy climbing and training so I will defer from spraying out my well known thoughts on the topics.

I spent about 10 days in Kalymnos and I have to say it was fun in a strange way. I have never visited a climbing tourist spot like that before with all that comes with the territory.

I had huge expectations and to some extent they where meet. The Grande Grotta and Panorama was truly stunning with exceptionally good climbing. Some other sectors where a huge let down. I saved the Sikati Cave for next trip. So I will go back not only to do some of the routes in the Grande Grotta and on Panorama I did not do but also to go and play in the Sikati Cave. I had a fairly productive session and did plus 20 routes of good quality. A few shitty routes and I missed some obvious dispatches. In one way the trip was huge failure, I was pretty convinced I would score some tourist ticks and send my first 7c onsight but I kept getting winded up and stressed out and fell off all 7c onsights I tried. I did a few in 2nd go. I did not try any thing hard I just tried to have fun and get as much quality climbing done as possible.

One thing I have to comment on is the grading. All the talk about all routs being so soft I found miss leading. I can understand that all the rests play in to some extent and that the gym style of climbing can be perceived as soft but if you are more of a normal climber the upside down, inside out climbing is pretty far out. Some routes felt more like wrestling than climbing. Full on body action. The down side with the trip was that I think I lost plenty of pulling hard strength and no fingerboard training for so long time is not good.

Well now its time to get the stamina training online and get used to crimping, side pulls and pockets. The Trilogy project is just around the corner and I will now focus all my attention to getting fit for high volume big intensity climbing so Gorge du Tarn, Ceuse and Tre Cime is on the agenda.

© Copyright 2012 - All Rights Reserved David Falt

Thursday, 3 May 2012

This day was kind of a total fuck up. First off we did not get out until 1.30 pm. Then when we finally hooked up we had no rope… What to do? Go bouldering… Ok but I have seen that and they have crash pads we have no pads… Well lets go up and have a look my friend told me. I onsighted the first problem I tried, a nice steep crimpy wall. I felt such a rush of happiness when I stood up on top of the bloc, that pure send happiness that means so much to us climbers. Mannnn this is not so bad after all. Ego boost can obviously fix any pre existing ideas of whats fun or not.
So we ended up moving on to new problems. OK so why all this fuss about bouldering? Well today was my first EVER real boulder session in my entire life! I tided in for the first time in 1986 and so far I have never tried out bouldering for real. Strangely it was so much fun and I always thought it looked kind of lame and not at all some thing I would be exited about. Now I’m super psyched on this new discovery and need pads ASAP. To day we did some quite hairy stuff sans pads and I guess that continuing with out pads can only end badly in the long run. So a few MOOM pads will be on order. Grades? No idea making it even more fun. Pure is best. I feel like a kiddo on X-Mas!
Only one more set back before we got home… Punctured my one week old summer tire on the car, that sucks and is costly crap. Well The good climbing some what compensate for this finical set back.

© Copyright 2012 - All Rights Reserved David Falt


Tuesday, 1 May 2012

This one looks sweet!

I like all about Cilo Gears packs but the pricing is outrageously expensive. Ok cutting edge and all that but the price is a problem. Little like the Rapp Line from Edelrid, great if its part of a sponsor deal not so good if you are a consumer.

I'm debating (in my head) the best configuration for a two man team when it comes to backpacks for a project I'm hoping to do this fall in the Himalayas. Shall we go for a leader pack and a bigger one for the one following? Or shall we go for equal sized packs and haul the leader pack on some pitches?

I have tried both systems but can't make up my mind as to what I think is best. Well guess I have all summer to think about it.