Sunday, 18 July 2010

Alberto Zerain to solo Everest Hornbein couloir

Wow a guy opting for the real deal on an 8000 meter peak and off season. I can only lift my hat and send my best wishes! And he cant be more spot on in his view of the current state of affairs in the 8000 meter game.

Whatever happened to the road being more important than the goal, Alberto asks:

“People fix far too much rope on most 8000ers,” Zerain stated in a press release. “It's beyond securing their own line on difficult passages...most climbers today let others do the job and focus only on the summit instead of on the way they climb."

With most crowding on the normal routes, Alberto said, "anyone wishing to be face to face in pure harmony with the mountain should look for a route far from the normal itineraries.”

Friday, 16 July 2010


Photo credit: Novellón/Pereze 2009 R.I.P Oscar

Its time to go back to Himalaya and have a go at the infamous North Ridge of Latok. We have tried to find out how the Giri-Giri boys have been doing but no news so far. No matter what the outcome is I think its one of the most beautiful mountains in the Himalayas and the potential for futuristic line seams endless. 
If all goes to plan we will try the US (Lowe, Kennedy and Donini) line. We have planned for a long expedition and expect to wait for our shoot for quite some time so our huge Mountain Hardwear Space Dome will be filled with goodies and books. I cant wait to tie in under the huge and winding spur with my 5.10s on, knowing that its going to be some very long and exhausting days ahead. 
The final preparations will include the current trip to the Dolomites and the Peuterey Integral on Mt Blanc so we arrive acclimatized to plus 4000 meters.