Saturday, 22 January 2011

Gear tip for Cerro Torre to fend off idiots

Looks like it will be hard getting the essential stuff through customs...

Better do a re inventory of the rack for Cerro Torre this year. As its been reported that David Lama is back on Cerro Torre to bolt from the summit down. I guess the prick needs a tope rope. This must mark an all time low in modern climbing history. Go tope rope on a hill with in your league and play with kids sharing your shitty values. Don't pollute the mountains with this kind of shit. 

Add the following if you are heading out there any time soon...

Bolt Cutter

Hack Saw 

Fixed key to remove Bolt Hangers

Pepper Spray to fend off Guides jamming the Compressor route so David Lama can tope rope Cerro Torre

Knuckle Brace to hit any one related to David Lama his climbing sponsors and Red Bull

Be ware SHIT happens in big mountains. Tents blow up all the time when Epi gas bottles default. Ropes getting cut down due to safety for non jugging climbers. Gear get stolen. All sorts of shit happens. In 99 per cent of the cases this is just pure evil but right now I don't give a shit if any thing happens to the David Lama Circus. 

I would not think twice before cutting his haul bags off or any other added trash up there if I pass it.

This self absorbed prick is as unwanted as EBOLA and add as much value to climbing as a shit bag coming off El Cap.

Friday, 21 January 2011

Winter ascent of Kantengri

A few members of the Kazakhstan National team pull of a stunningly fast winter ascent yesterday at 14.02 local time. Kazakh hard men Vassiliy Pivtsov, Sofrygin Alexander and Gabbasov ldar pulled off the 3e ever winter ascent of Kantengri. The most northerly placed summit over 7000 meters. Round trip Almaty - Summit - Almaty 13 days! This peak is hard to bag in summer and is well know for its harsh conditions. 

Tuesday, 18 January 2011

The fattest Slob on the MOON team 2011

I have received some fun... some exited... some a wee bit bitter... comments to the fact that a NO boulder guy like me is going to be part of the 2011 MOON Climbing team. I'm not a boulder climber at all. Yet... I'm not up and coming at all. I'm a very mediocre sport climber. I'm more of a fat slob. I'm trying to be an alpinist but I mostly fail on my projects (thats kind of the concept in alpinism).  But I try. I try as hard as I can to be active in as many different areas of climbing as I can. I share my different experiences from climbing with you on this blog and else where... I write about climbing. I have opinions about climbing. But most important I have fun climbing and I love climbing! 

Saturday, 8 January 2011

bedside manners...

Photo from Chamonix January 6th 2011

What about your bedside manners? Well I guess thats kind of irrelevant for climbing but it might tell us some thing about you as a climber... I listed what I have by my bed and what I brows through before lights out and sweet Patagonic dreams arrive.

Alpin Klattring 09
Doug Scott & Alex MacIntyre, Shishapgma
Copper Bracelet from Nepal
A Lamp...
A Black Berry
A picture of Arnaud Petit on Tough Enogh
2 page print of the pitch by pitch topo of No Siesta on Grand Jourasses
Atomised by Michel Houellbecq
NEO No 6 (a political magazine from Sweden)
Rock & Ice No 190, 187, 186
Alpinist 30 the Latok Issue
Hippie bracelet from Tanzania
Rock & Ice 187
Voltaren Cream
Eiger topo
Gorge du Tarn topo
Vanity Fair No 602
Alpinist 31
Neo No 5
Vertical x 4
Alpinist 32
Vanity Fair 596, 597, 583
I Pod ear phones
A Bunch of topos: Chamonix, Berner Oberland, Valais, Ecrin, Kandersteg, Patagonia, Cholatse etc etc

Wednesday, 5 January 2011

Chamonix climbing yesterday

The Digital Crack Tower on ca 3650 meters on the Cosmiques Ridge

Had a great outing yesterday on Aiguille du Midi but man it was freezing cold up there and with the wind on the bridge even putting the crampons on was a daunting task. Passing the Digital Crack tower was magic. Digital Crack is the highest located 8a in Europe. We rapped off the bridge and did a short but quite interesting route on the NW Face. I have climbed it a few times in the past but never in so dry conditions. Still great climbing.

Rapping in to the abysse...

Great mixed pitch on the NW Face of Midi

Frosty conditions

Arriving at the Cosmiques Ridge in magic light