Sunday, 21 February 2010

Some nice climbing but what....

The condition in the Alps are bad, it just keeps snowing and snowing. Not even the Ice climbing is that great since avalanche conditions are sketchy to judge. How ever the last week has offered some nice ice climbing. I did a nice but scary WI6:ish route and then in the spells between the snowing I got some sport climbing done. I'm not in great shape after my finger injury in October last year but its getting there and the finger seams to be heeling alright .

One can only hope the snowing stops and that some of the big routes in the Alps get in good condition so some nice and hard routes can get climbed. I feel really keen to go for some longer routes this winter, like Grand Pillier de Angle or some thing on the South face of MTD like Patagonic.

Saturday, 13 February 2010

Mountain Hardwear and some rock climbing

Understandably I'm pleased that our Latok expedition has been selected for the 2010 Mountain Hardwear Expedition Sponsorship Program. To receive  backing from one of the worlds leading outdoor manufacture is huge and I think it will help us not only on the mountain but also in other areas. 

I had hoped that by now I would have ticked off Kwangde and be on my way of some of this winters projects in Chamonix but the conditions in the Alps leave quite allot to wish for. Alpinism is a waiting game so I'm not to worried yet but at some point real frustration will kick in. We are planning to try some long hard mixed routes as tune up for Latok so a change in the weather pattern would be nice. 

In the mean time I entertain my self with Ice climbing and to day with some sport climbing. It will sound strange but the "stick" on the south facing cliff at 1600 meters was horrible to day. Way to warm! 

Wednesday, 10 February 2010

Mountain Hardwear Announces Expedition Sponsorship Recipients for 2010

Mountain Hardwear Announces Expedition Sponsorship Recipients for 2010;

2009 recipient is named National Geographic Adventure’s Adventurer of the Year

Richmond, CA (February 10, 2010) – Mountain Hardwear, a leading mountaineering and outdoor clothing and equipment company, announces the recipients of the 2010 Expedition Sponsorship Program. Mountain Hardwear will give total of $10,000 to help fund five 2010 expeditions.

2010 Expedition Sponsorship Recipients

Latok I, North Ridge – David Falt, Krister Jonsson and Marco Koupiainen

The group will travel to Pakistan from July to August 2010 to attempt an alpine style first ascent of the North Ridge of Latok I (7145m), a 2500m climb comprising of complex, steep terrain through rock, ice and mixed climbing. The North Ridge of Latok I is one of the most notorious unfinished projects in the Himalayas. The team plans to carry enough supplies to last up to 15 days on the route, allowing them staying power to sit out potential bad weather. The team members each have roughly 20 years of climbing experience in Scandinavia, the Alps, Yosemite, Himalaya and Alaska.

Jankuth, West Face – Malcolm Bass and Pat Deavoll

From September to October 2010, the team of two will attempt a first ascent of Jankuth (6805m), in Northern India on the Gangotri Glacier. In September 2004, Pat, Malcolm and three others attempted the ascent, but were shut down on two different routes due to inclement weather. Inspired by Jankuth, the highest mountain left unclimbed in the Gangotri region, Pat and Malcolm will call upon the time honored Garwhal ethic of self sufficient exploration choosing a “fast and light” climbing approach.

Ski Kyrgyzstan 2010 – Nathan Rowland and Ollie Nieuwland-Zlotnicki

Ski mountaineers Nathan Rowland and Ollie Nieuwland-Zlotnicki, both current residents of Aspen, CO, will travel to Kyrgyzstan in May 2010 for a circumnavigation of the Al-Dyrtr and Kary Sars glaciers in the Tien-Shan Mountains with multiple first ascent and descent attempts. The project ventures into a remote area of Kyrgyzstan that has rarely been visited or explored.

Trek for a New Nepal – Allegra Fisher, Caroline Pihl and Sarah Mortati

Wilderness explorers Allegra, Caroline and Sarah plan to be the youngest women, and the first Americans, to complete a traverse of the Great Himalayan Trail in Nepal. From November 2010 to April 2011, their goal will be to traverse Nepal from east to west while documenting the educational and environmental development potential along the newly created 1,600km Nepali portion of the Great Himalayan Trail.

2 Wheels 4 Education – Eleanor Moseman

Beginning in April 2010, Eleanor, a photographer who has been living and working in China, will attempt to complete a year-long, solo bicycle journey around Asia while raising money and awareness for two charities, Girls Education International and Stepping Stones China. She plans to document the journey through China, Mongolia and Russia through her photography, a book, and eventually, a cycling guidebook. Eleanor was inspired to raise awareness for female equality after noticing the obvious differences in rights between the male and female genders, and the disadvantages most females face living in China.

Team Leader for Operation Denali Is Named National Geographic Adventure’s Adventurer of the Year

2009 Expedition Sponsorship recipient, Marc Hoffmeister, the team leader for Operation Denali, was named one of National Geographic Adventure’s Adventurers of the Year. Operation Denali, an expedition of six wounded Iraq war veterans, sponsored in part by Mountain Hardwear and our Expedition Sponsorship Program, put an assault on Denali in June 2009. For more information about Operation Denali, visit the Mountain Hardwear blog:

About the Expedition Sponsorship Program:

Mountain Hardwear was founded by a small group of people who are passionate about mountaineering, alpine adventures and outdoor activities. Mountain Hardwear's sponsorship program was founded to encourage people to explore the outdoors and to push our products to perform in physically demanding environments. The program gives equal consideration to all who apply, with a goal of motivating adventurers to follow their passions and chase their dreams.


Mountain Hardwear, Inc. makes cutting edge mountaineering and outdoor equipment, apparel and accessories for ultimate performance in extreme conditions. Established in 1993 by a group of outdoor industry veterans, Mountain Hardwear is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Columbia Sportswear Company based in Richmond, Calif. Mountain Hardwear distributes its products through specialty outdoor and sporting goods retailers throughout the United States and over 40 countries worldwide. Mountain Hardwear has won numerous product and customer service awards since its inception, reflecting the company’s commitment and passion toward innovation. It’s our relentless drive to create the absolute best that makes us who we are. Mountain Hardwear. PERFORMANCE ELEVATED™.

Wednesday, 3 February 2010

Trekking Trip to Latok and K2 Base Camp July 2010

Join The 2010 Latok Expedition for a Trekking up the Biafo Glacier to Latok Base Camp and continue to K2 Base Camp and then up the Gondogoro La pass at 5700 meters and down in Hushe valley. Getting up the Godogoro La is trekking on steep ground using fixed ropes to ensure safety. 

The trip start in Islamabad where we meet up and get a briefing at the Ministry of Tourism and receive our trekking and climbing permits. We will try to fly out to Skardu as soon as possible. Flying conditions can be hard to predict but we will try to avoid going up the Karakorum High Way. 

In Skardu we will pack up all equipment and food in 25 kg loads for porters. We will spend two days in Skardu. Then we will travel  by Jeep to Askolie 3300 meter. Askolie is the end of the road and from here we start walking. Its about 3 to 4 days to the Base Camp of Latok. The trekking group will spend 3 days in BC and one of them can be spent walking up to the start of the North Ridge of Latok to look at the wall/ridge. 

Then the trekking will continue up to K2 Base Camp. At K2 our group will stay with an ATP expedition and one of the K2 climbers will give the group a short talk and progress report on the climbing. The time of arrival should be close to the summit days at K2 so this can be event full days. Then the trip continues back across Concordia and up to Ali Camp. 

Ali Camp 5,050 m

Camp, trek on Vigne Glacier. This is done in about 6 hours from Concordia. The first few hours are difficult going as we get on the Vigne Glacier from the Baltoro. Once on the Vigne it is a straight forward uphill walk on a white hard glacier. Ali Camp is surprisingly a warmer camp when compared to Goro and Concordia. It is located on a bird’s nest like small rocky area above the Vigne. The view looking down towards Concordia and K2 is powerful.

Hispang 4,833 m

This is the big day of the trip and departure is early,  2:00 a.m., in order to cross Gondogoro La (5,700 m.) in good snow conditions and descend the Gondogoro Glacier arriving at the Hispang campsite at 2:00 p.m., long tough day. The first part of the walk is in darkness over rocks. As we enter the upper Vigne basin, we get on ice and snow. The route has been set for us and we walk while being cautious of crevasses. The ascent begins around 5:00 a.m. Ropes have been fixed for us. We should be on top of the pass before 9:00 a.m. All along we are helped and assisted by the staff. The descent is harder and steeper than the ascent. Ropes again have been fixed and we basically descend about three pitches with the help of ropes. Walking into the lush green Hispang Campsite with a running shallow sandy stream is like entering a new world. 

The rest is straight forward hiking out the Hushe valley with its spectacular mountains. The round trip back to Skardu is about 21 days. This is a full service trip. You need to be fit and be use to walking in difficult terrain for 5 to 7 hours a day. The start of the trekking is hot and the end will be cold so good equipment is essential to enjoy this trip. You will be staying in North Face WE 25 tents and the food is great with fresh chicken, meet and vegetables all the way. We will have a constant supply of fresh supplies. The trekking group will have its own satellite phone for communications and daily weather forecasts. We will also provide the trekking group with an extensive first aid kit as well as direct access to medical experts 24/7. We will also have a helicopter rescue bond so that in the event of an accident evacuation will be fast and swift. 


2 People    US $ 4099/- per person

3 People    US $ 3874/- per person

4 People    US $ 3595/- per person

5-7 People  US $ 3420/- per person

This include all costs including transportation from Islamabad and back to Islamabad except soft drinks. All guests will get a free Mountain Hardwear insulation jacket with expedition embroidery. We can also help guest to buy gear at huge discount from our suppliers and sponsors.

You can book this trip through