Friday 30 October 2009

Cool new route in Nepal


Photo: Christian Trommsorff



The South Spur of Nemjung

Yannick Graziani and Christian Trommsdorff (Piolet de Or Boss) have bagged a nice looking route on Nemjung 7140 meter via the south spur. They climbed the route in alpine style spending six-days on a round trip climb reaching approximately 7000 meters toping out the south face but not the main summit. They skipped crossing the long easy ridge to the summit.

The route is about 2300 meters and was climbed in 45 pitches. The climb is graded ED + and was mostly ice, mixed and snow.

I can only say Chapeau!

Tuesday 27 October 2009

The North Face of Kwangde


Who is on for a winter trip to the North Face of Kwangde starting early January 2010? It might look a bit desperate to go online looking for a "date" for this kind of route but the sad truth is that there are not enough keen candidates for a trip like this. Kwangde is a big undertaking  but not a massive one however its a committing route plus its pure winter so one has to like being cold. The up side is that the weather is usually dry and stable. 

Well lets see how this pans out. In the mean time I will keep waiting for the first Ice.

Friday 9 October 2009

Michael Kennedy & Carol McDermott talks Latok expiriences

This is a online interview I have done with Michael Kennedy Alpinist editor in chief who was part of the 1978 expedition to Latok and Carol McDermott CRUX Founder and expedition leader of the 1991 Latok expedition. Despite some 25 plus attempts on the North Ridge of Latok no one has been higher than the 1978 US expedition composed by Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy (Canadian by birth but resident in the U.S.), Jeff Lowe, and George Lowe attempt the 8000-foot North Ridge, climbing capsule-style and spending 26 days on the route. They reach a high point of about 23,000 feet. June-July. What will it take to unlock this great line? What's the history of this Mountain? In this mini series of postings I have tried to find a few answers.

Firs out Michel Kennedy

- Given the elusive history of the North Ridge, more than 30 years and about the same number of failed attempts. What is the key to pull it off? I mean some of the best of the best have been there and yet no one has bag it.

#1 - good luck with weather and conditions. #2 -  strong & compatible team. #3 - willingness to stay on the route long enough. You need all three at the right time.


- When would you go for a summit bid? June, July or August?

I'd say July but would want to study the weather patterns from recent years in more detail.


- If one assume this is "holy" ground and the FA will be done with out "raping" the ridge what number of climbers is the ideal team composed of?

Three, to spread out the work and give a margin of safety.


- Pure alpine style or Capsule style? Pros and cons?

Pure alpine style carrying maybe 10 days of food and fuel and three ropes (with three climbers) so you could fix a pitch or two above a bivvy.


- Is this a readpoint project or can one get luck on the first go?

We got lucky our first time, someone is bound to get lucky again.


- This summer Collin Haley tried "left" hand start whats your take on ideal line?

The ideal line would start on the rock, right at the toe of the buttress.


- What's it like above the magic 6000 meter bivy? Where will this route weight in? WI? M? 5.10????

Maybe WI 4, pretty easy mixed climbing, 5.9 plus some small sections of aid.


- When you where there in 78 did you understand how futuristic this line was?

It just seemed like a logical step. The climbing wasn't all that difficult - there was just a lot of it - so the altitude, weather and logistics of being on the route for so long were the main complications.


- I have looked at weather data over 20 years and in my opinion there is a trade off to be made between going early and have a snow start and risking mushrooms on the ridge but have cold and good ice on the top section with no falling debris or going late and have good clear rock but risking heat stroke and bad ice on the upper parts.

I'd probably still go in July and hope for the best with the weather.


- Do you know any other project in Himalaya that has been tried so many times and still no one has bagged it? Or do you agree with me when I say its "the" or one of the greatest unsolved problem in Himalaya?

Latok 1 is a classic 1970s route - a giant version of the Walker Spur - so I'm not real sure why no one has gotten up it. I'd hesitate to call it the "greatest unsolved problem" though. It's not as hard or as insecure as the West Face of G IV or the Golden Pillar of Spantik, for example.

- Trip advice?

Light & fast may not work on this one. You might have to go "old-school" - maybe a team of three with 10 or 12 days food & fuel, so you can sit out a few days of storm.


CRUX founder Carol McDermott on Latok


- Some background on you and your fellow expedition members from 1991? (when, who, strategy, impression etc)

 

The expedition was late-May to mid-July 1991. The team consisted of: Carol McDermott (leader – New Zealand)

Dave Wills (New Zealand) Andy MacFarlane (New Zealand) Andy MacNae (British).

 

Wills and MacFarlane where on their first expedition (to anywhere), MacNae on his second to the Greater Ranges. I was by far the most experienced with about 8 6000’ers in Peru, G2, Bhagarathi III, Shivling, Ama Dablam, Caucasus, Patagonia under my belt. (Despite this, I have no hesitation in saying that both Wills and MacFarlane were better alpine climbers than me. MacNae was about my standard).

 

Strategy – basically, I am a great believer in time. Time for acclimitisation, time for weather. I booked the trip for 12 weeks, but was disappointed that the others only went for 6 weeks. This was a mistake because I think we could’ve done it. We warmed up on some smaller peaks (MacFarlane and I climbed a very nice peak opposite whose name eludes me at the moment). The others wanted to go straight on the route. We camped at the last grassy knoll where the Panmah is joined by the Sim Gang – about 4 hours down from a high camp opposite the base of the route.

 

We had 3 attempts. First was after 4 weeks starting on the rock buttress to the right, but this proved slow and awkward. Climbing would have been very easy in rockshoes, desperate in plastics (very slabby, compact rock). We got to the top of the first buttress and then descended (I can’t remember why). We descended down the gully to the left during which MacFarlane was hit by a falling rock. He was very badly bruised (and lucky to be alive – 1 foot more and his head would’ve been taken off). We retired to BC and it was clear that MacFarlane’s expedition was over. He went out with our LO.

 

Second attempt was a threesome, and we decided to go straight up the gully in a real alpine start (being terrified of rockfall). About 2 pitches below the ridge where one tops out of the gully, MacNae collapsed with some weird kind of oedema. Wills and I had to lower him down and assist him to BC where he started to recover. He decided to stop at this point.

 

Third attempt was Wills and myself. We did a really hard appraisal of how to do it and went ultralight – no tent or anything, about 6 days food. First day we climbed the gully where the exit pitch (in my opinion) was very hard – about WI 6. (Anchors were terrifyingly poor. Wills lead, I belayed). We bivvied on a snow mushroom. The second day was spent climbing up a long fluted ridge to the base of the rock/mixed climbing. Although the line looks quite well-defined from below, its not quite the same up there (or it could’ve been the weather that closed in on us mid afternoon obscured the line). We did about 6 pitches up mixed ground, but nothing really hard. The rock is much better here. Bivvied in cut-out seats and it snowed heavily all night and the next morning. Going as ultralight as we were, our strategy was “go up, or go down, but don’t hang around”. We descended – about 40 raps, 20 hours in abysmal conditions. The last 8 or so were already wired after our descent with the ill MacNae.

 

Wills had to go – I had another 6 weeks. I went to Islamabad to meet my girlfriend (now my wife) and a week later we started a Hispar-Snow Lake-Sim Gang- Baltoro-Hushe trek. We had 3 weeks of near-perfect weather. I was so frustrated - we could’ve done it. (Wills was also to go back and attempt Latok 2 more times in the following years with Brendan Murphy. Brendan was later to die on Changabang).

 

Impression – the route is big. I don’t believe it is technically that hard, but it goes on and on, and it is sure as hell harder than Magic Line on K2 or Makalu. One is truly committed. The line is compelling, long, straight, and high – there are very few around to match it (West face of G4 definitely).

 

 

- Given the elusive history of the North Ridge, more than 30 years and about the same number of failed attempts. What is the key to pull it off? Some of the best of the best have been there and yet no one has bag it.

 

The key is to go very light and very fast. For the descent, you’re looking at 80 odd rappels, so I would start off with a lot of material and wire the rap points on the way up – it was a life-saver for us to find the last 8 set-up after 18 hours of descent in snow and wind. The key?  Perseverance – this has got me far further than any climbing ability. Also, you need to LOVE the stark, remote, barren isolation of the Karakorum. I think the others on my trip found spending 6 weeks in this environment quite tough psychologically speaking.

 

- When would you go for a summit bid? June, July or August? 

 

Arrive mid-May, be ready early June. I think you would be very unlucky not to get a window if you gave yourself 8-10 weeks to attempt an ascent. The gully is easier early on, but rock higher up is cleaner later on. August the weather is less reliable.

 

- If we assume this is "holy" ground and the FA will be done with out raping the ridge what number of climbers is the ideal team composed of? 

 

Two

 

- Pure alpine style or Capsule style? Pros and cons? 

 

Alpine style.

 

- Is this a "readpoint" project or can one get luck on the first go?

 

Onsight! Reading won’t help, getting the weather will, and to get the weather, you need to put in the time(Mind you, does reading a lot of novels count?)

 

- This summer Collin Haley tried "left" hand start whats your take on ideal line? 

 

I’m not sure what the left hand start is. For us there were really only two options – the gully (left) or the buttress (right). I think the “purest” line would be the buttress on the right. We compromised on the gully in this respect, but got a lot further and quicker.

 

- What's it like above the magic 6000 meter bivy? Where will this route weight in? WI? M? 5.10????

 

The climbing is steady. Bit of route-finding to find the way of least resistance. I think the climb’s difficulty is not in a technical grade, but in the majesty of its size, the constraints of the altitude, the commitment it demands, and once you’ve reached the summit, you’re only halfway!

 

- When you where there did you understand how futuristic this line was? 

 

I was simply drawn by the line and the sheer size of it. I’m not a visionary when it comes to climbing – I climb what I like the look of (and could possibly do, technically speaking). I call M12, F9b+ or whatever utterly futuristic, but I don’t think this really applies to big mountains.

 

- I have looked at weather data over 20 years and in my opinion there is a trade off to be made between going early and have a snow start and risking mushrooms on the ridge but have cold and good ice on the top section with no falling debris or going late and have good clear rock but risking heat stroke and bad ice on the upper parts.

 

As above.

 

- Do you know any other project in Himalaya that has been tried so many times and still no one has bagged it? Or do you agree with me when I say its THE or one of the GREATEST unsolved problem in Himalaya?

 

I remember Nuptse South Pillar rejected a few, as did Jannu. To be honest, I am surprised Latok N Ridge is still unclimbed actually, given the number of attempts and the quality of many of the climbers (most win a way higher league than me). I would say it is THE biggest unsolved problem in the Greater Ranges (not being in the Himalaya!). There are 2 climbs that really stood out for me in the 80’s – the South Face of Annapurna, and the West Face of G4. After this, yes there have been harder climbs done, but they lacked the sheer speed, simplicity and audacity of these 2 climbs (both done by 2 people in alpine style, moreorless).

 

-          Trip advice? 

 

I don’t think you need any!

Monday 5 October 2009

The Latok attempts

The list of attempts on Latok 1 North Ridge is long and include some of the best alpinist of its time yet no one has managed to finish the line.

By Michael Kennedy (updated by David Falt)

This text was originally pulished as part of "No summit no cry" by Michael Kennedy in Rock & Ice # 157 March 2007

7145 meters/23,441 feet

Latok I (also known as Latok Central) is well-guarded on all sides by steep rock buttresses and hanging glaciers, and presents no obviously safe and easy path to the summit. The North Ridge is the exception, at least as far as safety goes; while there is some danger from serac fall at the base of the route, one passes quickly through the hazard zone, and once on the route you only have to deal with the more manageable risks of cornices, snow mushrooms, and technical difficulty.

The route has been tried at least 20 times since we were there in 1978, including multiple attempts by the same climbers. No one has yet reached our high point, poor weather and too much snow being the usual culprits. With a few exceptions, all of these attempts have been made in at least as good a style as ours. It is my hope that future parties will continue to treat the North Ridge with respect by leaving as little trace of their passage as possible.

The following chronology is as complete as possible given the source material available (listed at the end). I’d welcome additional details of these or other attempts I may have missed.

1975 – A Japanese team led by Makoto Hara circumnavigates the Latok group via the Biafo, Simgang, Choktoi, Panmah, and Baltoro Glaciers. Avalanches and rockfall prevent any meaningful attempts. July-September.

1976 – A Japanese team led by Yoshifumi Itatani attempts the couloir between Latok I and Latok III (Latok East), getting to about 18,700 feet before turning back in the face of serac fall. July-August.

1977 – An Italian team led by Arturo Bergamaschi investigates the route attempted by the Japanese in 1976 but decides it’s too dangerous. They make the first ascent of Latok II from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier. August-September.

1978 – Americans Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy (Canadian by birth but resident in the U.S.), Jeff Lowe, and George Lowe attempt the 8000-foot North Ridge, climbing capsule-style and spending 26 days on the route. They reach a high point of about 23,000 feet. June-July.

1979 – A Japanese team led by Naoki Takada makes the first (and to date only) ascent of Latok I via the South Face. After a lengthy siege and fixing much rope and three camps on the rock buttress left of the couloir between Latok I and Latok III, six members reach the top on two separate days. June-July.

1982 – British climbers Martin Boysen, Choe Brooks, Rab Carrington, and John Yates make two attempts on the North Ridge, the second to a high point of about 19,000 feet. July.

1986 – Norwegians Olav Basen, Fred Husoy, Magnar Osnes, and Oyvind Vlada attempt the North Ridge, fixing at least 600 meters of rope and reaching a high point of about 21,000 feet after 18 days on the route. They spend another 10 days in heavy snow before giving up. July.

1987 – French climbers Roger Laot, Remy Martin, and Laurent Terray fix rope on the first 600 meters of the North Ridge, and encountering heavy snow, turn back at about 19,700 feet. July-August.

1990 – British climbers Sandy Allan, Rick Allen, Doug Scott, and Simon Yates, and Austrian Robert Schauer make a number of climbs in the area, but don’t attempt their primary objective due to “the difficult and dangerous snow conditions and the forbidding appearance of the pendulous snow mushrooms adorning the North Ridge of Latok I.” June.

1992 – Jeff Lowe (U.S.) and Catherine Destivelle (France) try the North Ridge, encountering huge snow mushrooms on the route. Carol McDermott (New Zealand), and Andy McFarland, Andy MacNae, and Dave Wills (Great Britain) reach about 19,300 feet on the route during two attempts the same summer. July-August.

1993 – Americans Julie Brugger, Andy DeKlerk, Colin Grissom, and Kitty Calhoun attempt the North Ridge, turning back at about 18,000 feet in the face of bad weather. July-August.

1994 – British climbers Brendan Murphy and Dave Wills try the North Ridge, reaching a high point of about 18,300 feet on their second attempt. August-September.

1996 – Murphy and Wills return for yet another try, reaching about 20,000 feet before a dropped rucksack forces retreat. Two subsequent attempts are thwarted at 19,300 feet by poor weather. July-August.

1997/1998 – Americans John Bouchard and Mark Richey make three attempts on the route, the last with Tom Nonis and Barry Rugo, reaching a high point of about 20,000 feet. Unlike previous expeditions, they report high temperatures and dry conditions, which resulted in “considerable melting and rockfall from high on the face.” They follow the rock pillar from the bottom of the route, finding superb climbing up to 5.10. Bouchard, Richey, and Lyle Dean return the following year for another attempt, but never get on the North Ridge due to bad weather. August.

2001 – Wojciech Kurtyka (Poland) and Yasushi and Taeko Yamanoi (Japan) have a permit for the North Ridge but never attempt it due to poor weather. Stein Gravdal, Halvor Hagen, Ole Haltvik, and Trym Saeland (Norway) reach about 20,500 feet after 15 days on the route. August.

2004/2005/2006 – Twin brothers Willie and Damian Benegas (Argentina) try the North Ridge three years in a row. The first two years they encounter much snow and bad weather during their attempts in June and July; they find much drier conditions in August 2006 but a major storm stops them at about 18,000 feet.

2006 – Maxime Turgeon and Louis-Phillipe Menard (Canada) make an attempt on the futuristic North Face, retreating from 17,400 feet in the face of dangerously warm conditions. They then turn their attention to the North Ridge, but are turned back at a similar altitude by deep, fresh snow covering the previously-dry rock. August.

2007 - Bean Bower and Josh Wharton

2008 - Josh Wharton and Whit Magro 

2009 - Colin Haley, Dylan Johnson and Josh Wharton started up to the left of the prominent rock spur leading up to the distinct bivy at 6000 meters

Sadly this year Oscar Perez lost his life in an attempt to forge a new route on the Latoks, climbing with Alvaro Novellon. There original plan was to attempt the North Ridge. 

Sources:  
The American Alpine Journal (1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1983, 1987, 1988, 1991, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1998, 1999) The Alpine Journal (1991/92, 1993, 1997)
Alpinist (Number 2, Number 4, website story 9/18/06)  High Magazine (#171, 1997; #234, 2002), Collin Haley