Tuesday, 7 April 2015

New lighter Metolius Master Cams!

This is good news for any one who is serious about safety and weight of the overall rack! Made in the USA with out any compromise!

Good video walking you through the changes and the thinking behind the updated version of the Master Cam. I use them all year around, no matter if its in the Dolomites in summer or in Chamonix in winter.


This is a very comprehensive review of the revised Master Cam.


Tuesday, 3 February 2015

Keep it simple and fun! My Pre Spray for 2015

Last year was an utterly disappointing year for me in terms of climbing. I accomplished nothing of what I had set out to do. I was severely demotivated and I think I needed some time off to better understand what I really want.

This year I can feel the motivation coming back, the joy of moving over rock, ice and snow in exposed terrain is back and fueling me with positive energy. Climbing is so personal to me I find it hard to get on projects as I can't really explain them to potential partners and then I get sad I have no one I can pursue my dreams with.

I still have not figured out how to resolve that. Being talked in to going on routs don't usually work for me. I need to want it on a love affair level to fully engaged and commit.

This year I have structured my train so that I can focus on trying to climb Das Phantom Der Zinnen ground up. That is some thin I know I can do and some thing I have wanted for years. I alos like to finish AKUT on Cima Ovest. My love and obsession with Tre Cime is impossible to shake. Its simply making me so happy to climb there so thats what I will focus on. Climbing that makes me happy!

Below is a topo of Hannes Pfeifhofer's new and very ascetic route up on the left hand side of Cima Grande. I would love to attempt that with some one I experience some of the best climbing days I have ever had in my life. Lets see if she can be persuaded to go and try.

Looking at Tre Cime in sunset and one can only hope to be bless with more time as a guest on the immense walls of Cima Grande and Cima Ovest.

And off course I hope to be in shape in the fall so I can visit the grater ranges, Patagonia would be ideal as I have yet to top out the Super Canaletta. Family, time, work and other commitments will dictate what can be tried and what has to be put on a back burner.  

Monday, 9 June 2014

Pakistan climbing season kicks off with Terrorism

Last fall I wrote an article for Alpinist on the future of climbing in Pakistan post the Naga Parbat massacre. Even if the lates act of terrorism was conducted far from where climbers move, it calls for caution for visiting expeditions.

The situation is at best volatile and tension is high du to a number of reasons, they are all briefly summarized in the text below and I thin its good reading for any one planning to go to or depart Pakistan during this season. I know some expeditions are underway and some are going. I alos know some have been denied permits and that might indicate that certain areas are deemed unsafe. I'm not sure what the Government of Pakistan finally decided to do in order to better protect visiting expeditions and trekking groups. 

An other issue to factor in to the risk assessment is the fact that India has a new leadership in place with executive power as of this week. If tension would rise in the border areas I thin its safe to say that its not the best place to be in proximity of. Other than that I hope every one stay safe and have fun in Pakistan this summer.

As for safety and security updates just stay alert and pay attention to world news. Subscribe to standard risk mitigation procedures and keep a low profile. And most important avoid traveling by road to the Northern areas from ISB at any cost. Its a risky venture not worth it. 



Top of the Agenda

Pakistani Taliban Claim Responsibility for Karachi Airport Attack
The Pakistani Taliban claimed responsibility on Monday for an overnight assault on the Karachi airport that left ten attackers and nineteen others dead (NYT), an attack that Pakistani paramilitary Rangers initially ascribed to India. The militant group recently split over disagreement over peace talks with the government, which have faltered, while the military has intensified its air offensive in northwestern tribal areas. Karachi itself has been a city contested by militant groups, and tensions escalated there last week after a political leader in exile was arrested by British authorities; he was released on Saturday but remains under investigation. Prime Minister Nawaz Sharif will convene an emergency security cabinet meeting this week to debate the future of the talks (Dawn). Another suicide attack on Sunday night killed thirty Shias in Balochistan who were returning from a pilgrimage to neighboring Iran (Express Tribune).


"Two years ago all the states in the region would have publicly or privately accused Pakistan's military and Interservices Intelligence (ISI) of supporting, protecting, or at least tolerating almost every terrorist group based in Pakistan. The ISI had links with all of them and often collaborated with them. Recently those relations have changed. Governments in the region now accept that Pakistan is in some ways trying to fight terrorism on its soil. But those governments are also concerned that the Pakistani military and political elite have lost control of large parts of the country and cannot maintain law and order. …There is still no overall political or military strategy to combat Islamic extremism. The Pakistani army tries to suppress some terrorist groups but not, for example, those that target India. Such a selective strategy cannot be maintained indefinitely and poses enormous risks to the entire world," writes Ahmed Rashid in the New York Review of Books.
"The split likely marks a return to Pakistan's discredited policy of Good Taliban; Bad Taliban. While American troops head home from Afghanistan, while an election is under way, it would be silly of Islamabad to give up its proxies, runs the reasoning. Who knows what might happen across the border? Who knows what allies Pakistan might need? So long as the Good Taliban steer clear of Pakistani targets then all is well. Rather than clear the militants, the havens can be left for now. But while those refuges remain, the Bad Taliban will remain too," writes Rob Crilly in the Telegraph.
"The ISI's game of prolonging the post-9/11 insurgency in Afghanistan long enough for the tired American leviathan to pack up and go home – and for Pakistan to move in more forcefully – is the direct cause of this terrorist surge, which has taken over 50,000 lives.There are now three separate but interrelated insurgencies eating at the Pakistani state like overfed parasites: the sectarian Sunni jihad against Pakistan's Shia population, the Balochi insurgency, and the gangsterism and religious extremism destroying Karachi. When exporting militancy is a state's central foreign policy tool, it does not take long for the pawns to turn their guns on their masters," writes Omer
Aziz in the Diplomat.

SOURCE: http://www.cfr.org/about/newsletters/archive/newsletter/n1965  

For additional information: http://scroll.in/article/666777/After-audacious-attack-on-Karachi-airport,-Pakistan's-war-against-the-Taliban-is-in-limbo

Thursday, 3 April 2014

An open Letter to the Organizer of the Piolets d’Or

The 2014 Piolets d’Or – fails yet again to live up to its true potential

The Piolets d’Or is a fantastic idea and very cool event but its constantly fails to live up its potential. Surrounded with controversy and constantly struggling with its identity, organization and format it’s a doomed event. In recent years, GHM, the main organizer of the event and its patron Christian Trommsdorff have implemented some minor change in a desperate effort to stay relevant, but this years event shows the need for a major overhaul of the charter and structure of the Piolets d’Or if its going to survive as the prime event celebrating alpinism. 

The international jury of the 2014 Piolets d’Or was chaired by George Lowe who once was at the forefront of cutting edge alpinism when he along with Jeff Lowe, Michel Kennedy and Jim Donini where forced to turn around on the famous and still unfinished North Ridge of Latok in 1978. 

Legendary French female alpinist, Catherine Destivelle who unquestionably is one of the most distinguished female alpinist in modern times also served on the jury together with Denis Urubko who is a outstanding high altitude alpinist. The rest of the jury I have no idea how or why they where selected or what their merits where to be judging in an event such as this. But frankly speaking I think the rest of the jury lacked the insight necessary to judge today’s cutting edge alpinism. 

The jury and the nominations

The first singe that some thing was off with the 2014 Piolets d’Or came when the list of nominated accents was published. One of 2013 unquestionably most notable accents, the French South Face route of Gaurichankar was missing. I’m not saying any of the nominated teams did not deserve being nominated but leaving the Gaurichankar team out was truly bizarre given how significant that first accent was both in terms commitment, technical level and dedication to outstanding ethics. 

The Mount Laurens route was carried out in the finest of styles and with the highest degree of integrity and commitment but it was an effort comparable to other impressive Alaska accents in 2013 such as David Lama and Dani Arnolds accent of Moses Tooth so why was that accent not nominated? On top of that the Laurens accent is difficult to compare with the other nominated climbs.

It’s not an easy task to find a balance and in order to do so maybe the Piolets d’Or would be better off with a new format comparing comparable efforts or simply avoid trying to distinguish between outstanding efforts and stick to celebrate the nominated accents. 

The Jury and the Q&A with the teams

On Friday the 28th I sat in on a roughly three hour session where the teams presented their climbs and explain the decission making process behind the climbs. This was to my understanding the jury’s designated main opportunity to gain detailed insight to the team’s efforts. This was the decisive moment where the jury should get a deeper understanding of what the teams went through and how they dealt with the various issues they where face with on their climbs and trips. This is where detailed questions about grade, difficulties, judgment calls and other issues should be penetrated and claims verified. But none of that happened.

Each team where to make a 20 min and then the jury was meant to ask question. 

Media where allowed to sit in and listen and as a media observer I have to say I was very surprised that the jury virtually had no questions at all to any the teams. Of the few questions the jury asked the lack of relevance was even more surprising. This exercise was both pointless and utterly embarrassing in the sense that jury seamed to totally disengaged. 

I had expected a structured format where the jury followed some kind of script with questions tailored to give the jury context serving as platform for the jury’s deliberations and final decisions. Instead some random questions about the weight of the backpacks were asked. 

If this session is any indication of how the final jury deliberations where conducted I’m not surprised that the 2013 Piolets d’Or failed to award one of the most impressive teams of the nominees, again I don’t want to taking away any thing from the K6 team or Ueli Steck but its embarrassing on an unprecedented scale not to give an Piolets d’Or to the Kunyag Chhish East team. 

The organization of the Piolets d’Or have plenty of homework to do in terms of how the jury is selected and how it’s to conduct its work in the future. It’s pivotal for the jury to have clear instructions to lean back on when making its decission. Now its seams totally random and that dilutes the value of the event. 

Change the format

Even if the event has been surrounded by controversy for a long time it serves a very important purpose in celebrating cutting edge alpinism, but that is lost in the constant controversies the current format are creating. Maybe its wrong to look at the Piolets d’Or as an awards event and instead of just recognize the larger purposes an event like the Piolets d’Or serves. It’s very much an event where two countries situated on each side of Mt Blanc, comes together in a tremendous effort to pay tribute to modern alpinism. Is that not enough? 

Steve House who embodies the spirit of the ambitions the Piolets d’Or charter outlines was in Chamonix during the event week but House was no where near any of the celebrations, that if any thing is an indication that some thing is fundamentally wrong.  

The lack of ability by GHM to get the community of leading alpinists engaged is a formidable display of the lack of relevance the event is suffering from. It should be a natural meeting point and a week where alpinist comes together and share their experiences in an open forum discuss the future of alpinism.  

Kunyag Chhish East

The first accent of the impressive Southwest face (2700 meters) of Kunyag Chhish East, 7400m was carried out by Simon Anthamatten and the brothers Hansjörg and Matthias Auer over six days on the third attempt during the same expedition. This face has been the target of many expeditions and strong climbers such as Steve House who was forced to turn around very close to the summit on his attempt. In my opinion the success of this team was a magnificent display of exceptional alpinism, true passion, teamwork and determination. Very few alpinists can stay motivated for so long time in a remote basecamp being shut down twice and forced to endure a decent involving 41 abseils. To have the mental stamina to go back up a third time speaks volumes of the skills this team represent. Now they where left with out a Piolet d’Or. Can some one explain that to me? Not awarding this accent with a Piolet d’Or speaks volumes about the fundamental need for change. 

After the Piolet d’Or was finished Hansjörg Auer posted the following on his Facebook Page: 

”If a member of the Piolet d'Or Jury sees it critically why my brother Matthias never reported about his climbs until now, it´s time to change something. This is only one sign of how superficially they were dealing with our adventure on Piolet d'Or. In fact only George Lowe (jury president) and Catherine Destivelle (jury member) understood the challenge of climbing Kunyang Chhish East. But the teardrops of George and Catherine, when they apologized to us for the final decision are meaning a way more, than the headlines of the newspapers tomorrow. Now I know why Marko Prezelj rejected his award back in 2007. Congrats to Ueli, Ian and Raphael for the golden ice axe 2014 and Marek, Graham and Mark for the nominations.”

I think its fair to say that the Piolets d’Or has yet again reached an all time low point. 

David Falt

Tuesday, 28 January 2014

I'm getting one! Are you?

Very good review of the new Metolius rope bag in dp climbing who wrote this about the Vortex bag.

"Metolius rope bags have long been the benchmark for durable quality and their newest model, the Vortex, is no exception. Withou"