Wow a guy opting for the real deal on an 8000 meter peak and off season. I can only lift my hat and send my best wishes! And he cant be more spot on in his view of the current state of affairs in the 8000 meter game.
Whatever happened to the road being more important than the goal, Alberto asks:
“People fix far too much rope on most 8000ers,” Zerain stated in a press release. “It's beyond securing their own line on difficult passages...most climbers today let others do the job and focus only on the summit instead of on the way they climb."
With most crowding on the normal routes, Alberto said, "anyone wishing to be face to face in pure harmony with the mountain should look for a route far from the normal itineraries.”
http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19503