E9 Climbing

Friday, 27 July 2012

Six days in the Dolomites with Mayan Smith-Gobat

Mayan Smith-Gobat And me on "Alpenliebe", Cima Ovest

Day one, the 16^th of July: We climbed the first 4 pitches of "Alpenliebe", 500m (7c) on the North Face of Cima Ovest. This route was established in 1998 by Hainz and Astner. The weather was super cold and we thought it was too cold to go for a push at that stage so we left the 4 first pitches fixed. I had been up there a few weeks earlier in much better conditions. So our plan was to wait for warmer temperatures.

Day two, the 17^th:We decided it was too cold to go do Alpenliebe so we opted for an easy day getting some meters under our belt so we climbed "Gelbe Mauer", (300m 7a+) on Cima Piccola. This route was opened by the late Kurt Albert and Stefan Glowacz in 1996 (7a, 7a+, 6c, 7a+, 7a, 7a+, 6c, 6c, 6b+). Given that this route is in the sun and we still did not feel warm we figured we would need the temperature to increase significantly in order to free "Alpenliebe" and the forecast did not really give us much in that way but we decided to go and see what it would be like on top of P4 the next day.

Mayan Smith-Gobat on "Gelbe Mauer, Cima Piccola

Day three, the 18^th: We went back to the top of P4 on "Alpenlibe" and after much deliberating we decided to call it quits. We thought it was a bit too cold to be certain we would be able to free the route. It was about 4 to 6°C and some wind. We packed up but left the fixed rope in place for a future attempt…. We went down to Cortina to get on to the internet and take some pictures and info of the Donnafugata from the website of www.planetmountain.com. We then drove to the valley of Torre Trieste and hiked up to Refugio Vazzoler where we arrived just before 8pm.

David taking a photo down the wall on "Alpenliebe", Cima Ovest

Mayan on here way up the wall on "Alpenliebe", Cima Ovest

The Megalodon you encounter on top of P4 on "Alpenliebe"

Day four, the 19^th: We departed Refugio Vazzoler for "Donnafugata" 750 m 8a at 4am and the rest will follow in the coming blog post… But we started Climbing…

Day five, the 20^th: Climbed the last pitches and descended for some hydration and well deserved food.

Day six, the 21^st: Hiked down to our cars! Business done to some extent... We hope to be back for more.''

Stay tuned for the "Donnafugata" blog post.

Monday, 23 July 2012

Tre Cime and Torre Trieste news next week!

This Megalodon can be spotted on top of Pitch 4 of Alpenliebe on Cima Ovest North Face. More news on the last trip to the Dolomites next week.

© Copyright 2012 - All Rights Reserved David Falt

Sunday, 15 July 2012

Summer climbing so far

So far I have been sport climbing quite a lot and really enjoyed it. This spring and summer I have gotten substantially stronger compared to previous years. Still the rewards might not have been that great if I look at what grades I have achieved. That might come in due time. I don't really know much about how to train to get better at what I want to do. What I have noticed is that I have gotten much more stable at dispatching 7b+, 7c 7c+ in a few tries and some nice onsights.

I still have to break through the magic 7c onsight barrier (did a iffy 7c os). And manage to send my longtime 8a+ project in Ceuse. But knowing my progress curve I think it might happen in September. Right now I try and mix high volume climbing on long routes around 7bish with the odd RP project around 7c+.

I had a great day in Tournoux and dispatched a slightly different 8a or 7c+? Its a new route but compared to the other 7c+ I think it might be 8a and I liked the style. I climbed relaxed and tactically smart so it a cool feeling.

I have been on one trip to Tre Cime to get in the "mode" but also to try some of my projects in order to determine witch routes are worth investing time in. Its now time to step up the game and dispatch the projects. If luck, shape, partners and weather all fall in to place my Trilogy project might be off the ground soon.

I have had some ups and downs as far as motivation or rather believing in my abilities this spring and summer. I have also lacked that key spark to have that extra burning desire but in the last weeks I have felt it all coming back. Climbing with Simon, Anders, Maria was great fun.

Looking for the first pro on the First pitch on Alpenliebe Cima Ovest 7c (600m)

The Tre Cime Towers...

Anders on the delicate crux pitch on Nobile 7c+ (350m)

Monday, 9 July 2012

VOTE for me!

If you like my picture the vote for it.I have entered a photo competition to vi a trip to Argentina to go climbing and I rally like your vote. Its in Swedish but its simple.

Give it 5 stars, enter your email, the fill in the code and submit!

http://outsideonline.se/wp-content/plugins/wp-photocontest/viewimg.php?img_id=6&post_id=22273&order=chrono

All the best David!