Tommy Caldwell Charity climb of Mescalito on El Capitan

In an effort to raise funds for Layton Kor medical care Stewart M Green and his friends have put up the website http://laytonkorclimbing.com for donations and the possibility to climb a classic with guys like Tommy Caldwell, Conrad Anker, Steph Davis etc etc.

And last week Swedish Eiger pioneer (first ever Swedish accent of Eiger) and Big Wall lover Mikael Sribhadung made a charity accent of Mescalito on El Cap with Tommy Caldwell and raised 4000 USD for Layton. Mescalito is one of the longest routes on the big stone and the 4 day accent was remarkably fast given that this was the teams first climb together. Back in the early 90th Sribhadung was a rising star in Sweden and a true all round climber comfortable on sport climbing, Ice, Big Walls and In the Himalayas. After years of absence from the big walls of the world Sribhadung is now back for the second time in a year on El Cap and in great style. Only time will tell but I think a big wall project in Pakistan is on the Sribhadung radar.

On his Facebook status Stewart M. Green comments on the accent: "Thanks Tommy Caldwell for guiding Swedish climber and businessman Mikael Sribhadung up Mescalito on El Capitan in Yosemite last week for a $4,000 donation to the Layton Kor medical fund...both of you guys rock!!"

All of you out there go to the site and make a small donation!

En post pa Svenska. Sorry internal Swedish BS

Med minskat intresse foljer jag div bloggar och siter som alla behandlar olika aspekter av klattring. Grabbarna pa TBS skicka i vag varens kanske roligast inlagg nar dom peppa upp sig for Stockholmsveckan i Fontan. Man kan bara lyfta pa hatten nar nagon lyckas vara sa rolig. Och detta ar val ett av de fa ljusen i klattersveriges morker.

Sverige och svensk klattring kanns som den trampat vatten de senaste 30 aren. Svensk klattring har aldrig varit direkt cutting edge sett i ett internationellt perspektiv aven om manga svenskar verkar tro det. Svensk Himalaya klattring har en pinsam historia som helt saknar spektakulara milstolpar som mater sig med de stora klatternationernas bedrifter (enstaka forsok har undantagsvis skett och da tanker jag framst pa Braod Peak). Samma sak galler i princip all svensk klattring med undantag for Big Wall prestationer. Av nagon marklig anledning tycks svenskar kunna presstera bra pa Big Walls runt om i varlden (Gronland, Patagonien, Himalya och USA). Detta ar bade gladjande och imponerande. Vad kan det bero pa att Big Wall team testat spektakulara nya linjer pa Gronland och i Himalaya men knappt nagon motsvarighet gar att hitta hos de som klattrar alpint?

Det ar ju inte sa att det saknas svensk aktivitet i Himalaya men i princip all aktivitet ar koncentrerad normalleder pa berg som redan ar klattrade pa langden och bredden. Kanske beror det pa att alla vill bli "kanda" aventyrare sa att de kan salja bocker och halla foredrag. Kanske beror det pa att det verkar enklare att bestiga Everest an att gora Shivling. Fast jag tror det beror pa att ingen vill kopa en bok om Shivling och det skulle inte leda till en plats i TV4s morgonsoffa. Symptomatiskt for dessa 8000 meters klattrare ar att de alla tycks vara helt omedvetna om hur pinsamt mediokra deras prestationer ar sett ur ett internartionellt persoektiv. Men av nagon anledning sa funkar det i Sverige. Utvecklingen ar skrammande och nar jag laser att den svenske pajasen som brande satellite timmar pa att snacka med media under olyckan pa K2 (2008) nu ska kora guidade turer till Everest sa blir jag morkradd. Ar denne uppenbart inkompetenta person kapabel att leda andra pa Everest? Ar nogon verkligen kapabel att guida pa Everest? Knappast men lagligt ar det. Man kan ju bara hoppas att det inte slutar som i High Crimes. Eller ar det just det som behovs? En rejal olycka for att fa slut pa galenskaperna? Jag vet inte om detta "aventyrar fenomen" vi ser i Sverige beror pa landets avlagsna geografiska placering eller om det bara ar bristande sjalvinsikt/sjalvkritik.

Ett roligare "topic" ar det som nu debatteras friskt pa div forum och bloggar. Allt startade nar Hanna Melin kasta ut fragan om det ar ratt eller fel att ta bort borrbultar fran en led nar den gatts pa egna sakringar. Det ar som vanligt The Usual Suspects som deltar och inget fel i det. Alltid lika stort underhallningsvarde men ocksa total avsaknad nagon typ av historisk aterkoppling. Jag saknar en medvetenhet om svensk klattrings rotter nar debatterna rasar pa div siter och forum. Allt borja inte efter ar 2000.

Men i foreningssverig ska ju alla kunna gora allt pa lika villkor sa det ar inte en sa forvanande utveckling. Med detta ar det inte sagt att den inte bor bekampas. For vad ar nyttan av en okad klatterpoppulation? Vad ar nyttan av fler posers i Himalaya? Vad ar nyttan av fler personer som tror att toppen pa ett berg ar den punkt dar de fasta repen tar slut? Vad ar nyttan med fler klattrare som inte sjalva kan lagga sakringar och forflytta sig pa ett naturligt satt i bergen? Vad ar nyttan med klattrare som tror att klattring ar begransat till 10 borrbulara eller tejpbitar pa en plyfa vagg?

I debatten som Hanna startatde sa laste jag att nagon (red) tycker att avgorandet om bultarnas vara eller icke vaar ska avgoras demokratiskt i samforstand... Suck! Personligen tycker jag att att den som klattrar en tur i basta stil ar den som satter ribban for vilken etik som ska galla. Hela det har dravlet med att anpassa klattringen till en niva som passar den konfort zone som individen fortillfallet befinner sig i ar det basta sattet att sabba for framtida gennerationer.

Eller som Shawn Boye uttryckte det: "Desire is not an acceptable argument for adaption of an ethic when one is not capable of accomplishing their goal; all things have their time."

Yet an other sad day for Female Himalaya Climbing

Annapurna has historically been conservative when granting climbers access to its summit. Its a notorious hard cookie to crack and for many of the aspiring collectors of the big 14 Annapurna has been left to the bitter end of the game. Annpurna is a special mountain as it sees little of the sad 8000 meter tourism. Its also unique among the 8000 meter peaks as some of the finest alpine style achievements has taken place on its South Face.

Sadly 2010 this all changed. Never has so many climbers summited Annapurna in a season but the style is pathetic. To day the climbers have set camp at the foot armed with fixed ropes and massive army's of Sherpas and helpers. They don't go in circles they move backwards. The style to day is "heavier" than on the mountains first assent some 50 years ago. It tells you all you need to know about the French expedition lead by Herzog and all you need to know about to days posers. I might be naive but one would think that with today's technology and gear it wold be easy to show that progress has been made. But the girls racing to bag all 14 seams to be so blind sighted by the strive to be the first so they forget all about style. Or maybe they never knew how to distinguish good style from bad.

Eun-Sun Oh "became" the first female "alpinist" to "claim" an accent of all 14 summits higher that 8000 meters. I say this with brackets as I think the REAL game is still on and that's the game to reach the summit by Fair means meaning NO 02 and in style. This doped and supported Korean circus is a disgrace to female mountaineering much like the disgrace Swedish mega poser Annelie Pompe brought on Swedish alpinism when she went out in the biggest national news paper and made a false summit claim on Shishapangma.

Its sad with the focus on summits and the collecting of peaks when style is forgotten and blind ambition is the new yardstick to measure achievements with. My advice is: Bitches get real and go light and do some thing you master with out fixed ropes, O2, Sherpas and all the other shit you bring to become famous.

My reporting in Alpinist on Piolet d'Or

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web10s/newswire-piolets-dor-2010-identity

Piolet d'Or and its Identity crisis

The Piolets d'Or 2010

Photo: David Falt

The revived version of the controversial Piolets d'Or event held its second event since its abrupt ending a few years back in Chamonix Mont-Blanc and Courmayeur over the weekend of April 7th to 10th. Last year the event was back in a new promising format with a career award. Group Haute Montnage (GHM) had also joined forces with the Alpine Club in the UK and created the Spirit of Mountaineering award to honour alpinists who risk everything in order to rescue fellow climbers. Last year the award was given to 4 out of 5 nominees based on what was perceived as different categories. I was how ever quite disappointed that the Nuptse accent who I think was the fines but did not top out (Benoist and his partner did a judgement call and returned from the ridge when all interesting climbing was finished due to feeling they where approaching the limit) did not get an golden axe.

This year five outstanding accents was nominated all meeting the standards of the charter adapted by GHM. The GHM charter is the guide line for the jury when they are deliberating and selecting the final award winning candidates.

The new career achievement award was given to Reinhold Messner who was quite vocal in his criticism of modern high altitude climbing and the focus on 8000 meter tourism. Messner made an interesting observation when he pointed out that todays Basque and Japanese (both female) expeditions working on Annapurna are much heavier in style and tactics compared to the expedition lead by Maurice Herzog 1950. Hertzog who was present in Chamonix and participated in a panel discussion with Messner agreed that some of today's expeditions performance is not that impressive. The achievements of the nominees how ever impressed both Hertzog and Messner who both praised the light style chosen by all nominated teams.

In the press briefing I asked Messner the following questions:

- Messner Is the Piolet d'Or important?

" This is like the Oscars for alpinism, its a celebration of the alpine tradition. Alpinism starts where tourism stops. To days trade routes on the 8000 meter peeks climbed by commercial expeditions using fixed ropes, camps and Sherpas are pure tourism that has nothing to do with alpinism. The Piolet d'Or celebrate Alpinism that's whats beyond this tourism."

- Messner on the development of Alpinism

"To day its not about being a hero. This is some thing that belongs to the past where mountaineers where received as hero's up on there return from the mountains. To days hero's are climbers like Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra. The internet has changed the focus on what's interesting to the younger generations."

"To days alpinist can't find much unknown terrain but they find new lines that are technically hard and a the same time intelligent. When Hertzog and other climbers went to Himalayas nothing was know about the next valley or what the human body was able to with stain."


This years golden axes were given to two of the five nominees. The jury motivation this year was quite different in comparison to last year`s. The motivation this year was that these two expeditions best meet the criteria outlined in the GHM charter. Christian Thrommsdorff who is the chairman of GHM emphasised that two winners just got more than the other three rather than looking at it as the other nominees did not measure up to the charter. I found this quite lame and I think that in the end this unclear approach will dilute the importance of the event. I also think it can open up for new controversies. All accents nominated was great achievements and for some one to put one in front of an other on quite vague grounds makes the Jury look quite silly in my opinion.

I would argue that GHM must opt for a format where they award in categories. In its current format and given the outcome of this years event I think that more and more climbers will decline nomination as its kind of interesting to be par of some thing that is "changing" its format from year to year.

The Piolet d'Or is struggling to find a new identity and time is essential if this award wants to stay relevant and interesting to the climbing community. "The new Oscar style as Christina Trommsdorff describes the event will only stay relevant and avoid future controversy if the award criteria and process is clear and predictable. I also think jury presentations should be open to the public." That was one comment from a nominee.

Finlay it was hugely disappointing that the Alpine Club did not award one or two of the extraordinary sacrifices made in 2009 in the Himalayas in terms of mounting rescue missions to fellow climbers.

The 2010 winners was

Cho Oyu (8201m) southeast face, Nepal. The Kazakh climbers Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko climbed a very difficult and direct new route on this 2600-meter wall, during a 10-day round trip from base camp in May. With this climb, they discovered a bold and difficult new way to the summit of a popular Himalayan summit. For Urubko, the climb was a stylish conclusion to his quest to climb all 14 of the world’s 8000-metre peaks.

Xuelian West (6422m), north face, China. Bruce Normand from Scotland and Americans Jed Brown and Kyle Dempster are among the first climbers to explore the north side of this impressive massif. After climbing several virgin faces during acclimatization, they completed the first ascent of the 2650-metre north wall of Xuelian West, with five days of difficult and insecure technical climbing.