One shot is not always enough to bring down a desired target and the was the case on the Boivin route on Dome de Neige. But then you just have to reload and take another shoot. One solid ED1 is poor performance for a winter but its better than nothing and there is still one week to go and make no mistake about it I will push the envelop as hard as I can wen I start on Sunday in Chamonix. Targets are the Gabarou Silvy on Sans Nom or some thing on the North Face of Dru.
Lindsay Griffin wrote about the Gabarrou Silvy 1000m (ED3) VI WI6 6c M9/A1: "This appears to epitomise the ultra-modern Alpine mixed route involving high standard rock climbing and hard serious ice work. Subsequent parties have confirmed this to be one of the finest and most varied routes they have ever climbed. Normally, the climbing will be objectively safe, belays are good and the technical pitches are well protected."
How can one not want to have a goo at this route. If conditions and weather is permitting I just have to get a closer look at this dream route. But then again having plans and executing them is two different thing. Time will tell. I will keep trying its the only way to get things done in the alpine game.
This winter will not go down in history as a great one in terms of achieved goals its rather the opposite but this have given me time to nail down a great project for The coming Himalaya season in Pakistan. We will kick off early departing Islamabad on May 21st then about 8 weeks of adventure and if things go well about 8 days of climbing. Thats the harsh reality of Himalaya expeditions to peaks in the 8000 meter range when you are trying new routs on unclimbed walls in pure alpine style with no outside support and no supplementary O2.
The expedition goal will be reveled in April.
