Tuesday, 14 April 2009

The himalaya game and the true heroes! & Help Layton Kor!

I have managed to postpone my Latok permit to 2010 and a few tears are dripping down but at the same time I like to extend my best wishes to Colin Haley and his friends how are heading out to Latok this summer. I think there is at least one other expedition going to try the North Ridge of Latok this year. That will put the number of expeditions to Latok in excess of 30 since the 1978 Lowe expedition. Thats quite a big number for one unsolved problem and we have to remember that some big names have tried both once and twice. I think the North ridge Latok its the greatest unsolved problem in Himalaya and its no small task to try this line in alpine style. Expeditions to smaller peaks don't attract the media attention modern "explorers" get who scale Everest with private sherpas and O2 not to mention guides. The true heroes of Himalaya are the guys who go out and do there thing with small budgets on hard routes. I'm thinking of guys like Mick Fowler, Steve House, Valeri Bababnov, Simone Moro and a hole bunch of other guys who not only manage to set up benchmark routes but who also contribute to the community by sharing their knowledge and experiences with out any self promoting agenda. The generosity and the spirit some of some of today's world leading climbers makes me think of how the climbing community in general was in the 80th and mid 90th before the indoor generation started to swamp the crags and changing the essence of "crag" climbing. Before it was a "sport" when it was some thing we did in order to prepare for the real thing. I miss that but most of all I get scared when I follow the worlds leading website for sport climbing www.8a.nu and some blogs. The lack of historic perspective is an effective blinder but it has and will continue to dilute the the meaning of being a climber.

Help Layton Kor!

Layton Kor is undergoing some complicated medical attention and is in need of help to fund his medical expenses. Stewart M Green, www.stewartgreen.com or http://climbing.about.com/ is helping out by selling some fantastic prints signed by Layton for 50 usd a pop. Please all of you get one and help a legendary climber.

Brian Shelton at Front Range Climbing Company at + 1 719-650-1026 can take your credit card info or email on brianshelton@frontrangeclimbing.com