Thursday, 16 July 2009

Where shall one go? Not DOWN!

Well its a far more relevant question than it may appear. After spending the first part of the summer accomplishing less than zero in Pakistan one might ask whats next? Well it will be two independently done MRI scans a possible operation or two and then "rehab". What's next????? What can be done before X-mas in terms of climbing? A few options seams viable as far as climbing is concerned and as long as they don't involve any descents! YES you got it wright NO descents my knees simply cant take any more gravel walking so from now on I will go CLIMBING, not walking. I know that will exclude quite a few nice routes but that's the price I have to pay for this summers adventure.

In a few weeks I guess I will know more about what I can do and what's off limits but I have to get some thing done, so I have looked at Divine Providence (ignoring the decent) and I think I got ideal partners. A Big Wall should be ideal so why not have a go at Zenyatta Mondatta? An exercise like that might come in handy as preparation for this winter or next summer. Then The Young Spider in October before an operation if that's what it will take to get back descending gravel . Ueli Steck told me its SOLID M7 and bad protection so it my become crystal clear to me why this great line is still lacking a repeat from an outside team (as Ueli is the only one who has repeated his own route in winter...).

My knee is actually quite "ok" as long as I don't walk down hill on gravel or rocks. With crampons I do ok, I think... But I will need a few weeks rest and if I'm lucky that will give me some time to get strong again in my fingers. I should do well on sport climbing now as I have lost a bit of fat in due time we will know.


One is not getting that exited by reading the news flow on as no one is moving any where. I was sad to reed that the Portuguese climbers Daniela and Paulo failed on G VI they where truly super nice and a summit would have been a well deserved token for them. I hope to see them in the Alps this winter.