Thursday, 14 October 2010


I just had a great time climbing the North Face of Eiger in 15h with Olov a Swedish young gun. Olov has racked up quite an impressive alpine CV in "no" time. Since we had never climbed as a team before we opted for a casual assent with one bivy. We stopped at the Death Bivy for hydration and food at lunch time and then moved up to the bivy spot at the start of the traverse of the Gods. Climbing with Olov was a great pleasure and we had a great time and even during the early hours of the night.

Its was kind of accidental that we ended up doing the Eiger since I have never really looked at the Heckmaier route as an interesting option other than as a winter route. This time of year my attention on Eiger has been the Young Spider and now should be the perfect timing but sadly the ice is not formed. The Heckmaier was how ever a superb route and I think the conditions where good. If we would have been more tuned in as a team we would have done it in a day with out even having to stress. I think we will be back in winter for a 10 h accent.