Friday, 20 May 2011

What to do in Himalaya?

Himalaya is one of the best places on earth with some of the best climbing in the world. Going there can be committing if you opt for an alpine style attempt. Not only do you need to deal with the usual expedition stuff you need to get it right in terms of weather, partners, objectives, strategy, gear, health, fitness, motivation and conditions. As you star listing the components you need to get right in order to accomplish the goal, you soon understand that the odds are starting to stack up against you.

So going for a route in alpine style in Himalaya is all about trying. Practice makes perfect. Well I have had quite some practice. Lets hope luck is with us this time. No matter how much you plan there is always the X factor. So staying motivated is key. I find motivation and inspiration in the planning of an expedition. Finding an objective and starting climbing it in my mind as I train and prepare is key.

As there is no such thing as a perfect trip and conditions swing faster than politics change direction I have opted for a new strategy this time. I have applied for a number of permits in 3 different areas of Pakistan. The targets are also very different and they all have interesting possible lines facing different directions. The idea is to start off by doing some thing fairly moderate to get fit and well acclimatized. Then the idea is to try and push the envelope a bit on some thing bigger and more committing in a ultra light and fast style.

It will be interesting to see how this multi permit strategy pans out. We have permits on the Choktoi Glacier, Baltoro Glacier and in the Charakusa Valley. All areas with huge potential and some awsome challenges.

Photo of Ledgeway to heven courtesy of:

Picture of an unclimbed summit just off Baltoro

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