Not sure I have much to contribute with when it comes to hard sport climbing, in fact I think I have lees than zero to add as I’m such a mediocre climber. I’m outright lost in the world of pulling hard. Last year I spent an enormous amount of time redpointing an 8a+ and yes I’m happy I sent it but not overwhelmed with joy. After that ordeal I promised my self I would go for volume and not spend more than two or maximum three tries on any thing this year. How ever I have two routes in Tre Cime I like to pull off this summer and they both go free at 7c+ and 8a with multiple 7b to 7c pitches. So I figure I need to get some max power in me and not just stamina.
Now this redpoint swampland is hard to get out of. When I start to invest time and effort in to a route its kind of becomes important to send it. How come? What is really the point of climbing half a grade up or down? EGO! Its all about ego I guess. For me the process of trying harder routes are actually both demotivating and depressing, still I do it. I find climbing lots of different routes the most fun and satisfying part of climbing. Being out just climbing heaps of long and not too hard routes makes me happy. I guess some find it rewarding making slow progress and working out the best beta. I just want to get on with it. I think that why I’m a much better alpine climber than a sport climber. Its never too hard but you need that drive to keep going. I love that.
Still, I keep going back to the harder projects I have started working on. Not all in vain but I’m not sure its actually that rewarding, well at least not in the short term. It will be interesting how much of a toll my stamina has taken when I go to Tre Cime and try to climb 550 meters of sustained overhanging chosse. I can’t wait to be back in the magic world of the steep north faces of the Towers in Tre Cime. I also miss the CAI hut and its lovely staff.
What I also find interesting is that I have a very low gap between my onsight max and my redpoint max. When I’m in good shape I can climb 7c onsigt but to do a 8a takes me about 6 days of multiple tries. I wonder what factors in to this huge spread in ability to swiftly dispatch 8a? Is 7c just my threshold max so to speak, its the grade where the moves are just hard enough for me to pull through on what ever skills, power and technique I posses? Its most likely a waist of time trying to understand this, but if I did understand it it might help me progress.
One thing that became evident this summer is that having a climbing partner you can work routes with and share beta with is super motivating. Climbing with fellow MOON Athlete Kajsa Rosen for two weeks this summer was extremely rewarding and fun. Kajsa is very talented but above all very strong, basically every thing I’m not. We had lots of fun and Kajsa dispatched every thing with ease, I’m still struggling to finish off a 8a Kajsa did in an afternoon … I’m on day five now it seams like I need six days, or at least I hope I don’t need more.
Well this post might not make a lot of sense to any one so I will not insist on any one reading it.
Photo: Kajsa Rosen dispatching “Doux leurre” 8a in Grand Bois, I finally manage to send it and its a very cool route, not at all my style.