Tuesday, 12 August 2008

New route E7 6b Trad

To day I sent a new route in Ailfroid. The route is called Danger Safari and is a 30 meter climb protected by a knifeblade and 3 TCU:s. I don't ned to say its a nice run out going for the top. The route starts with a steep wall with some hard crimps and sloper kind of features. Go fast for the edge... The passage to the big slab is the crux and thats when it gets scary. The last piece of protection is way under you when you have to commit for the crux move and then you have a run out on a 6C+ slab. If you fall off you fore sure go at least 10 meters. Pics will be posted. 

This was my first trad route since 1994 so cool to be back in trad game. Or shall we say head pointing.