The Swedish Climbing Federation has gone mad!

If I did not know better I would have guessed that it was a April fools joke gone bad or that the Chairman of The Swedish Climbing Federation was on a intoxicated bender but its a fact. The Swedish Climbing Federation has via its chairman announced in National media that "they" the Federation will release a name policy for climbing routes. Offensive names shall be banned!

Interesting enough the chairman of the Swedish Climbing Federation has no board approval for this policy initiative. And at least two board members are disputing the proposed naming policy. From a technical point of view one can argue that the chairman has no right what so ever to start implementing or working on a policy unless told to do so by the general assembly.

All this after a local socialistic political activist wants to shut down a crag in Stockholm after finding the route names offensive. The theme on the crag is referring to Nazism. One of the routes is named Hitler. The description is "Short and evil".

First of all The Swedish Climbing Federation has nothing to do with the naming of routes and should have much more important things to devote its time to. The names appear only in a printed topo not on the crag. The topo is protected by the laws ensuring freedom of speech. Where is the world coming at when politics will decide route names?

Route names is a integral part of a creative process when putting up new routes. It can in a way be seen as a way to participate in the public debate commenting on what's going on around us but also as a prank. Good or bad. The political argument to close the crag is that the names marginalize the Natzi regime we all grew up to despise. If one buys that argument how can the world accept Charlie Chaplin? Shall we ban his mocking of Hitler? Shall we return to book burning?

A fun detail is that the climber finding the names offensive and who alerted the national media is carrying the family name Hess. I hope for her sake she is not related to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rudolf_Hess

Latok VS the World

Once again Latok showed its visitors off. This time it was the Giri-Giri boys who where sent home with out getting very far. If I understand things right they first opted for a line on the North Face and I assume it must have been in the same area where Maxim tried. Then had a go at the ridge.

The North Face has an interesting line at its right hand up some feature that looks a bit like a "ramp" only it looks STEEP and exposed but it leads direct to the summit. This must in a way be the ultimate line on Latok. Is it to futuristic? I don't think so it looks kind of smart but way harder than the line we are opting for.

Looking at this link is interesting, almost fun... Why would any one in the right frame of mind even contemplate this project? Well its love.

R.I.P Fredrik Ericsson

To day was a sad day for Swedish alpinism. Yet agin we lost a great talent to K2. Last time it was Daniel Bidner. All thoughts goes out to his friends and family. Fredrik was one of very few truly good Swedish alpinist/skiers and the fact that he was on a summit push with Gerlinde speaks volumes about his abilities.

Thanks Fredrik!

R.I.P

Alberto Zerain to solo Everest Hornbein couloir

Wow a guy opting for the real deal on an 8000 meter peak and off season. I can only lift my hat and send my best wishes! And he cant be more spot on in his view of the current state of affairs in the 8000 meter game.


Whatever happened to the road being more important than the goal, Alberto asks:

“People fix far too much rope on most 8000ers,” Zerain stated in a press release. “It's beyond securing their own line on difficult passages...most climbers today let others do the job and focus only on the summit instead of on the way they climb."

With most crowding on the normal routes, Alberto said, "anyone wishing to be face to face in pure harmony with the mountain should look for a route far from the normal itineraries.”

http://explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?id=19503

Countdown

Photo credit: Novellón/Pereze 2009 R.I.P Oscar

Its time to go back to Himalaya and have a go at the infamous North Ridge of Latok. We have tried to find out how the Giri-Giri boys have been doing but no news so far. No matter what the outcome is I think its one of the most beautiful mountains in the Himalayas and the potential for futuristic line seams endless. 

If all goes to plan we will try the US (Lowe, Kennedy and Donini) line. We have planned for a long expedition and expect to wait for our shoot for quite some time so our huge Mountain Hardwear Space Dome will be filled with goodies and books. I cant wait to tie in under the huge and winding spur with my 5.10s on, knowing that its going to be some very long and exhausting days ahead. 

The final preparations will include the current trip to the Dolomites and the Peuterey Integral on Mt Blanc so we arrive acclimatized to plus 4000 meters.