Monday, 26 January 2009

M7+ is the shit...

Photo: David Falt

To day was the first time I tried an out right dry tooling route and
it was truly bullshit. To climb on dust rock right by a nice ice cigar
is plain stupidity but then have you done that 4 times why not go for
some tool destruction? I have to say its outstanding in an athletic
way but quite pointless if you are training for big mixed route on big
alpine faces. The similarity is less than ZERO but sure you feel like
a hero toping out.

The snow keep dumping and now its hot on top of that. Looks like
Grindelwald is in having a good spell of wether this week but no
partner for some Eiger action. Its truly sad. Well I will start a
count down clock on the UIAA winter next week. Don't feel any panic
friends... Ulei Steck was dead on when he hit the big Face in Chamonix
its like any thing in life no show with out a bit of good timing.

For a monday after a bad flue I have to say I'm happy with somme WI 5,
M6+ and M7+ but I will not keep burning my days on bolted dry routes
after all I climb rock in the summer.